Bulalo, and a cow's unmentionables...

People usually think “Cebu City” when talking about restaurants. While it’s true that most of the better restaurants are found in the city, Cebu does not have a monopoly on great eating-places, especially those offering great value for money, and fresh country air to boot.

Those heading north may want to drop by for a bite to eat at Orosia Food Park. Located along the National Highway, Orosia Food Park in Consolacion is a popular venue for those who want to partake of traditional Filipino and Cebuano food. According to proprietor Elton Tio, the restaurant is also in much demand as a setting for wedding receptions, debuts and the like. Boasting of two levels, with each floor capable of seating around a hundred people, it’s not hard to understand why people hold their parties at Orosia. Not only that, the restaurant also has a substantial garden area that can also be used for festive celebrations. Those bringing kids will also appreciate the playground to the side of the main structure. Parking is definitely not a problem as the front can accommodate a very large number of vehicles.

Food at Orosia is basic Pinoy and Cebuano fare: grilled, cooked as the soup known as tinowa, or kilawin or kinilaw, made from raw ingredients such as fish soaked in vinegar and mixed with onions, garlic and other native flavorings and spices. Aside from the usual grilled food such as pork belly and barbecue, grilled tuna panga and boneless bangus are also available, with the bangus very well-flavored, not even needing to be dipped in soy sauce or vinegar, unlike the typical bland items found in other eating places. Orosia’s kangkong and grilled eggplant are also worth a try, and paired with the salted fish fried rice. For the more adventurous, lansiao, a stew made from a cow’s unmentionables, is available. Of course, one shouldn’t leave Orosia Food Park without tasting their pochero, or beef shank soup. Cholesterol overload aside, if there’s one dish Orosia is famous for, this is it.

Aside from the food, Orosia Food Park offers as an added attraction Elton’s pets. Though the animals are not actually on display, customers can request the staff to give them a look at Elton’s menagerie; the more daring can even handle them.

Though its location may seem a deterrent to those living in Cebu City, the good food, the fresh country air and the proprietor’s pets should be reason enough for those tired of the city’s dining scene. For the ones living up north, Orosia is a welcome treat for them, as it allows them to avail of good food without having to go all the way to Cebu City. All in all, whether you’re from the big city or from the towns and cities up north, Orosia Food Park is a win-win proposition.

New Mooon in Guadalupe

There’s an old Duran Duran song that goes “I light my torch and wave it for the new moon on Monday” that comes into mind. In this case though, it’s not a new moon that’s worth waving the torch for; It’s the “new”, revitalized Mooon Café, yep, spelled with three O’s. It’s still found in the same place, somewhere along the side streets of Guadalupe, the Mooon Café that everybody knows, only bigger and much better this time. Now under the management of Pages Holdings, Mooon Café has been given new life, a new beginning, and at the risk of sounding incongruous, a new dawn.

According to Charlie Pages, businessman, all-around good guy and proprietor of Mooon Café, though Mooon Café serves mostly Mexican specialties, he hesitates to label it a “Mexican restaurant”. Rather, “Mexican-inspired” is how he likes to describe this eating-place much loved by Cebuano foodies. “We don’t serve purely Mexican food here,” Charlie says, “Our menu is typically international cuisine, but with more focus on Mexican fare, and our interiors are reminiscent of a Mexican cantina.” If the interiors aren’t enough to let you know that you’re eating at a Mexican-themed restaurant, the names of the dining rooms should give you an idea where Charlie’s coming from: Tijuana, Vera Cruz, Acapulco, Guadalupe and Guadalajara. If that ain’t Mexican, homes, then what is?

With the restaurant’s two floors divided into several dining areas, diners have a choice on where to have their meals or drinks: the main dining room, the smoking area, the patio or one of the smaller dining rooms on the second floor. Incidentally, this is also where the bar is, so expect to see more serious drinking going on here.

Obviously, a restaurant isn’t about interiors, it’s about food, and Mooon Café has certainly earned a reputation for serving great food. Diners can start off with the Gambas a la Luna, Mooon Café’s version of the popular Spanish appetizer. Not so mild that you have to mix a few more drops of hot sauce and possibly ruin the flavor, not so spicy as to be uneatable, this dish has just the right amount of spiciness to whet your appetite and leave you looking forward to the next course.

How about lumpia or ngohiong, Mexican-style? Flautas, usually made with a cheese filling, is given a new twist at Mooon Café, with the addition of chicken slivers inside the flour wrapper. Lumpia and cheese sticks lovers will definitely have something to smile about with this dish.

Those looking for something to safe to order can never go wrong with a pizza. In Mooon Café’s case, however, customers should be extra-cautious when ordering the Pizza Diablo. Yes, it’s round like a pizza, it does look like a pizza, but it’s pizza, the Mooon Café way. Loaded with Jalapeno peppers, it’s a sure-fire way to experience heartburn if you’re not used to spicy food, though it’s definitely worth a taste.

For the main course, the ever-popular Mooon Steak is highly recommended. The favorite of countless Mooon Café patrons, the Mooon Steak remains as affordable, as tasty and as satisfying as ever. If there’s something that will keep you coming back to Mooon Café, this has got to be it.

Eating all that spicy food is bound to get anybody thirsty, and what better way than to wash it down with a glass or two, no, wait, make that a whole pitcher of Mooon Café’s fantastic Sun Cooler. A soothing blend of citrus fruits and watermelon, it provides a perfect cap to a Mooon Café meal.

With their good food and ambience, it’s no wonder Mooon Café has found itself being mentioned in an international guidebook. Even without that, the myriad customers who come back again and again for the food, the drinks, the friendly atmosphere is more than enough reason for Mooon Café to be considered an icon of Cebu’s dining scene.

Ding Qua Qua, or, where to get great dimsum in Cebu...

Teahouses, and tea, have always been an important part of Chinese culture. It was a place where everyone would gather, engage in conversation, exchange gossip, hang out, and of course, drink tea. After it was discovered that tea aided one’s digestion, teahouse owners started selling small, bite-size pieces of food served in steamer baskets.

Called “dim sum”, roughly translated as “light meal” or “delicate food”, these snacks or small food items soon became all the rage among customers of teahouses. Traditionally served from morning to mid-afternoon, the popularity of dim sum grew until it assimilated itself into Chinese culture.

In Cebu, where there is a large Chinese community, the tradition of teahouses has been preserved through the Kokseng and Uytengsu families with Ding Qua Qua Dimsum House. Meaning “the best of the best”, Ding Qua Qua has established itself in the hearts of Cebuanos as one of the, if not the most, popular restaurants in Cebu serving Hong Kong-style dim sum. In fact, in Cebu, the terms dim sum and Ding Qua Qua has become practically interchangeable.

And just how authentic is their dim sum, you may ask. According to the Kokseng brothers Christopher and Steven, the recipes for most of the food served at Ding Qua Qua have been handed down from generation to generation, and their family can trace their roots all the way to Hong Kong, where dim sum originated. That’s as authentic as you can probably get. Even with a lineage such as theirs, they still fly in consultants from Hong Kong regularly, to evaluate the taste of the food the restaurant serves, and to maintain its authenticity.

Most popular among the food at Ding Qua Qua is certainly their famed Steamed Fried Rice. While it is not exactly dim sum in the real sense, it has been a constant in the lives (and meals!) of a lot of Cebuanos, and representative of the quality of Ding Qua Qua’s food. Consisting of rice topped with a savory pork stew with small pieces of shrimp and green peas, it is served in a small ceramic bowl and is a meal on its own. It goes without saying that Ding Qua Qua’s Steam Fried Rice is absolutely delicious.

Of course, being patterned after a Hong Kong-style teahouse, dim sum should be the main feature of the menu, and at Ding Qua Qua, the siomai or shao mai is definitely at the top of the list. These are steamed pork dumplings in a flour wrapper, topped with shrimp, quail’s eggs or button mushrooms.

Perhaps the best way to enjoy a meal at Ding Qua Qua is to indulge in their dim sum buffet. It’s not purely dim sum though; aside from siomai, steamed fried rice, pata tim and cua pao, and the white fungi soup, which is a typical Chinese-style egg-drop soup, other dishes like fried mixed vegetables consisting of mushrooms, carrots and bamboo shoots in rich brown sauce, shrimp balls, lumpia, char siu or Chinese-style barbecued pork, vegetable balls resembling and tasting surprisingly like meatballs are also included in the buffet. Of course, the ubiquitous chicken feet, fried wanton dumplings and sweet and sour pork is available too. As an added plus every weekend, Oriental short ribs are offered as well. The dessert menu is also full of choices, but diners are encouraged to try Ding Qua Qua’s chocolate mousse and coconut crème, very similar to the maja blanca.

For several generations, Ding Qua Qua has existed in Cebu, serving the traditional dim sum so loved by many. Cebuanos have grown to love the food at this restaurant so much, that going to Ding Qua Qua has become a tradition in itself.

Ding Qua Qua is locared at JY Square Mall in Lahug, Cebu City.

Carlito's Way: The Steak Revolution

For so long, steak lovers used to patronize a particular steak house named after the owner. It got to the point that steaks became synonymous with the name of the restaurant (or owner, take your pick). I don't know exactly what happened, but Cebuanos seemed to have stopped patronizing this particular steak house. Maybe because their steaks were too expensive, or maybe the steaks weren't as good anymore, I don't really know. Pass by the restaurant and more often than not, there'd be no cars parked in front of the place.

Anyways, with the entry of Carlito's Way, steak lovers now have a place to call home. With their inexpensive steaks, friendly staff and cozy interior, who wouldn't want to have a meal at Carlito's Way?

In less than a year's time, they seemed to have gained a following among Cebuanos. And because of this, not one but two branches are opening. I guess I was right when I said that soon, Cebu will know steaks by another name.

Talk about bang for the buck. How about P395.00 for a 300 gram steak with cole slaw and mashed potatoes? They also got other stuff like gambas (shrimp sauteed in butter with garlic and peppers) and lengua (ox tongue with mushrooms and a creamy sauce).

By the way, this was supposed to have been posted a couple of days ago, I don't know what went wrong, but it never went on the web until now. Oh well, the perils of technology.

a mobster's haven in cebu

DIMLY lighted, wine bottles on the walls, soft music playing in the background, the interiors a cross between a Mediterranean villa and an Italian trattoria, this cozy restaurant located along A.S. Fortuna St. near the Adoration Convent of Divine Mercy exudes an old-world charm not found in most of the new establishments springing up in and around Cebu City. With the ambience reminiscent of a gangster’s favorite eating-place or watering hole, you’d half-expect to see Don Michael Corleone, Tony Montana and Lefty Ruggiero clinking glasses and counting the day’s take while being served by Charlie Brigante as Officer Frank Serpico glances at them furtively from another table.

Cinematic characters notwithstanding, underworld activities are not the norm at Carlito’s Way Steakhouse. Rather, the byword here is “beef.” The brainchild of Raul Baron and Leon Quimpo, two Ateneans with a taste for bovine-based meals, Carlito’s Way represents their love for the ultimate masculine fare, the steak. The duo being both self-confessed Al Pacino fans, the restaurant might very well be a tribute and a shrine to the legendary actor. Testimony to this are the various Al Pacino posters hanging on one wall of the establishment.

Diners at Carlito’s Way can choose to start their meals with Raul’s and Leon’s iteration of the traditional salpicao, a delicious plateful of tender beef cutlets sautéed in oil and served with a sprinkling of herbs. Christened “Salpacino” by the owners, this dish, usually eaten as an appetizer, can also be enjoyed as the main viand in a meal or as something to partake of with a beer or even a glass of wine.

Another wonderful complement to a bottle of beer would be their Bacon Mushrooms. Made from round bacon and mushrooms cooked in oil, it offers beer drinkers an alternative to the more commonplace pica-pica such as chicharon, sisig or pork belly.

First-time patrons should definitely try the Lengua Champignon, ox tongue and mushrooms drenched in a rich creamy sauce, topped with garlic flakes. With the ox tongue so tender it practically melts in one’s mouth, it comes as no surprise that the recipe is a well-kept secret.

Of course, steaks are king in a steakhouse, and the steaks at Carlito’s Way are definitely something to look forward to. Grilled on a rock grill using heated lava rock, the steaks come out cooked nicely, without the usual charred edges and smoky taste that come from charcoal grilling. The steaks are served with soup, buttered vegetables, a choice between rice and mashed potatoes and an excellent creamy gravy.

From their inch-thick flank steak to their rib-eye steak to their massive, 280-gram T-bone, the steaks at this restaurant not only taste really good, they also come at very affordable prices. Those who prefer chicken or fish need not despair, too, as Carlito’s Way also serves chicken and fish dishes as well as sandwiches.

With steak houses in Cebu so few and far between, Carlito’s Way comes as a welcome addition to the dining establishments found in the city. With the kind of reception they’ve received from Cebu’s hard-to-please diners, it’s quite obvious the meticulous Cebuanos have taken to steaks done Carlito’s Way.

And as Raul and Leon hope, soon Cebu will know steaks by another name.

This article was published in SunStar Cebu Lifestyle Section.

HOLY COW!

While most people go to restaurants expecting to be served, dining at Sumibi Yakiniku Tajimaya, at the far end of Crossroads Arcade may hold a surprise for most people, and may serve as a challenge for the culinary skills-impaired. It’s a relatively do-it-yourself affair at this Japanese restaurant. Customers come in, get seated, order their food, and are provided the ingredients for their main course.

Provided? Yes, ingredients are provided, as in, the customer is expected to cook the main courses of grilled beef on their own. A charcoal grill set in the middle of the table is meant for this activity, and while the staff is always at hand to help out, diners are encouraged to perform this particular task to fully enjoy the experience.

Named after the old province of Tajima in Japan, in what is now known as Hyogo Prefecture, Sumibi Yakiniku Tajimaya serves the very excellent Wagyu beef. Defenders of Kobe beef need not cry out, as Wagyu and Kobe beef are actually the same kind, Wagyu being the breed of cattle and Kobe, the capital of present-day Hyogo. With its intense marbling, the extra-special Wagyu beef comes out subtly flavorful, tender and juicy without the graininess that comes with other types of beef. Beef lovers, especially those who love steak, will definitely have a field day at this restaurant.

Most noteworthy among the beef dishes available at Tajimaya are the Wagyu Karubi, or special boneless short ribs, the Jou Gyu Tan, beef tongue lightly seasoned with salt, and the very impressive Wagyu Tokujou Saroin, the Japanese version of an extra special sirloin steak. All these are served raw and ready for cooking, arriving at the customers’ table already thinly sliced and delicately seasoned. A word of advice for the eager cook-to-be: Wagyu beef, because of the fine balance of the fat and meat content, should be cooked as fast as possible to keep the flavor and juices in and to reduce shrinkage. Less than a minute’s worth of searing on each side should be enough to cook the cutlets yet retain its delicate flavoring. Any more than that and the result would be a charred strip of beef not worth eating. “Rare” is the operative word when cooking Wagyu beef. A plateful of Sancyu, or fresh lettuce leaves, is also served as a complement to the grilled beef. Meant to be wrapped around the thin slices of beef and dipped in a soybean-based sauce, it gives an interesting tang to the already savory Wagyu beef.

Even as the restaurant’s menu revolves around the many iterations of Wagyu beef, other dishes are also available such as the Tegutan Kuppa. A spicy miso soup with rice and egg, it demonstrates the expertise of the Japanese in creating great tasting food from otherwise simple ingredients. Customers who prefer to have rice with their meals and yet are still looking for something more exotic than the usual Japanese-style fried rice would do well to order the Ishiyaki Bibinba, sizzling rice with mixed vegetables and topped with egg. Aside from being a great supplement to the main course, it brings an artistic touch to the table. The stone pot the rice is served in adds an interesting, Zen-like aspect to an already interesting dish.

A lot of people see even the more common types of Japanese food as an acquired taste: raw fish, seafood and tofu. At Sumibi Yakiniku Tajimaya, diners get something both familiar and different all at once. Familiar in the sense that Cebuanos love grilled food, and different, not only because of the kind of beef used, but also because of the experience of cooking and eating at the same time. By introducing Wagyu beef and the yakiniku style of cooking into the market, Sumibi Yakiniku Tajimaya gives Cebuano diners a whole new look at Japanese cuisine.

This article was published in SunStar Cebu Lifestyle section

...definitely not chicken soup, but still good for the soul...

When you think of it, the popular batchoy is kind of a puzzle. Is it just a snack or a meal on its own? The answer may be irrelevant, as food is not exactly meant to be questioned, only enjoyed.

Originally an Ilonggo specialty, the humble batchoy has reached practically every major populated area in the Philippines, and has even migrated to far-flung Filipino communities in Los Angeles and San Francisco. The simplicity of this dish belies its popularity; who would have thought that it would become a favorite not only in its native La Paz, but also in the major metropolitan centers of the Philippines? Restaurants serving Filipino dishes usually feature batchoy in their menus, unquestionable proof that it is an authentic Pinoy favorite.

Composed of a savory broth, noodles, leeks for additional tang and some color, beef, innards and liver strips with bits of crunchy chicharon on top, sometimes mixed with a raw egg, the batchoy can be eaten any time of day: breakfast, lunch, supper or merienda. It’s also perfect for those night owls who have had too much to drink and wish to sober up, or those just looking for something to eat during the wee hours of the morning.

Enter Carlo’s Batchoy, located right smack along Sotero Cabahug St, possibly the busiest street in Mandaue City. Operating since 1983, Carlo’s Batchoy has become undoubtedly the most popular batchoy house in Mandaue. Its popularity led to the opening of several other outlets, not just in the outlying municipalities, but also in the hustling and bustling city of Cebu. Besides that, Carlo’s Batchoy prides itself on being the first all day-all night eatery in Mandaue, and one of the first in the province to offer 24-hour service.

Juliet R. Veloso, Carlo’s Batchoy’s operations manager explains the restaurant’s beginnings, “Caiser Casumpang, the owner, is Ilonggo, and he wanted to share this Ilonggo specialty with the Mandauehanons. Together with his wife, Zenia, they opened the first store and named it after their son.” She goes on to explain that the restaurant started out by serving just batchoy and pan de sal, “Although during the latter part of the nineties, Carlo’s Batchoy began to offer siopao and grilled food such as pork belly and pork and chicken barbecue. At present, we offer other Pinoy dishes such as sisig and dinuguan, as well as calamares, pansit molo and other favorites.”

The food at Carlo’s are all very good, possibly even better than the food at some of the pricier establishments in both Mandaue and Cebu Cities, and more importantly, it won’t cost you an arm and a leg. Their batchoy, however, remain the perennial favorite, the best seller. Pop into any Carlo’s Batchoy branch, especially at the main store in Mandaue, and you’ll most likely see a bowl of batchoy in front of every customer. Or if you want, ask a Mandauehanon, any true-blue Mandauehanon, where to get the best batchoy in town. Stock answer: “Basta batchoy, Carlo’s!”

This article was published in SunStar Cebu Lifestyle Section

...thanks for the memories...

I remember when I was a seventh-grader at La Salle Greenhills. It was Schoolyear 1983-1984, Fridays were half-days then, and when school ended for the week, my classmates and I would usually troop to the Greenhills Commercial Center to hang out.

Our first stop would always be for lunch, at a quaint but cozy, little-known pizza restaurant. Its pizza and lasagna was quite popular among Greenhills habitués, but otherwise unknown to people who did not frequent the area. It was almost always full of La Sallistas, and if memory serves me correctly, was called Greenwich Pizza and Pasta.

Fast forward to the year 2007, I’m now a feature writer for Sun.Star Cebu, and I suddenly find myself somehow reliving the experiences from twenty-three years before. I’m at a Greenwich restaurant, albeit in Cebu City, and I’m with some members of the media, to take part in a shortened version of their popular “Pizza-Making Camp”.

I’m an amateur cook, and I have made my own pizzas in the past, but my process involves nothing more than just putting the ingredients on top of the pie then baking it, with no system whatsoever. It’s a totally different thing at Greenwich. To paraphrase Michelle Flaherty, the band geek in American Pie, “At pizza camp, we were taught to make pizza the Greenwich way.”

First off, it was stressed that cleanliness was very important, hence the presence of the “double hand-wash” dictum. Crewmembers were required to wash their hands twice, ever so often, as they would be preparing food for other people to eat. As “trainees”, we were also expected to follow this guideline, as Greenwich officials were observing our “training period”, and we were not supposed to be given any special treatment.

As soon as we were taught how to construct a pizza, from the basic single cheese pizza to the more complicated Greenwich Special, we were set loose in their kitchen. First to go on was the secret pizza sauce, then the special cheese. The meat bits went on next, followed by small pieces of pineapple. Pepperoni slices are then placed on top in a sort of ‘x’ pattern, with bacon and mushroom slices last.

Once constructed, we placed our pizzas in a conveyor belt, where it enters an oven. Around three minutes later, almost like magic, our cooked pizzas emerge on the other side, as professionally done as can be.

According to Boggs Racaza, Area Manager for Operations, the Greenwich Pizza-Making Camp is a year-round activity held by the company, not only for children but for anyone who’s never made a pizza on their own and is interested in making one. She relates, “We even have HRM students coming in to register, for some actual experience in a professional environment.”

Though the small and cozy Greenwich I knew no longer exists, replaced by spacious, brightly-lit, well-equipped restaurants with full crews in every part of the Philippines, the smells are still there, whatever branch you may be at; more importantly, the tastes that many La Sallistas grew to love are preserved, if not made even more delicious. And when I took that bite of Greenwich pizza that I made with my own hands, all the memories of playing hooky, and chasing after Assumptionistas, came rushing back. And that famous pizza in Greenhills? It was as if we never said goodbye.

calling a spade a spade

It’s around 9:00 pm, Election Day, May 14, 2007 and my wife and I are at a “Cuban-inspired” restaurant near (or is it part of?) the Ayala Entertainment Center. Perusing the menu, I came across entries described as “Spanish this”, “Valenciana that”, and some other food that are not customarily associated with Cuba, such as hummus, chicharon and a “something-Orientale”, chicken, I think. I ask Charleen, my wife, “Hey, I thought this was a Cuban restaurant?” We look at each other in wonder, and start nitpicking, haha.

First off, the sisig: I didn’t know they had sisig in Cuba. And why exactly is a “something-Orientale” being served in a “Cuban” restaurant? Most glaring on their menu was PASTA and PIZZA. What the fuck? In a “Cuban” fucking restaurant? No matter that the restaurant is supposed to be owned by a group that runs some of the best restaurants in the Philippines, when I want pizza or pasta, I’d go to an Italian restaurant, definitely not a “Cuban” restaurant. At the very least, for pizza, I’d go to Shakey’s, Greenwich, Pizza Hut, Yellow Cab, Da Vinci’s, Domino’s or whatever pizza restaurant is nearest. Heck I’d eat those generic pizzas being sold on the streets if there’s no other alternative and I’m absolutely dying for a slice. For pasta, I’d probably just cook it at home, if I’m too lazy to go out, or if my budget is pretty tight. But pizza and pasta in a “Cuban” restaurant? Who gives a fuck that the ingredients supposedly come from Cuba, or the dish is “Cuban-inspired”? Pizza is pizza, pasta is pasta, and they’re both Italian in nature, as Italian as la dolce vita, as Italian as the red Ferrari 550 Maranello I always dream of but know I will never own.

Then I realized how much I dislike restaurants that label themselves as this or that, or follow a particular “theme”, such as this now-defunct restaurant near the Iglesia ni Cristo Church along Mango Avenue. It was named after someplace in Morocco, the same place where Pepe le Pew hangs out, anyways, they had, ta-da, porkchops! Yup. And sisig. No kidding. Sure, they had hash pipes, “shisha” they called it, but still, porkchops and sisig? Isn’t Morocco a Muslim country? That fact alone should have warned the owner to lay off on the pork dishes. Besides the pork dishes, they had tapsilog, gambas and a whole bunch of other food that ideally shouldn’t be served in a “Moroccan” restaurant. And I don’t think I ever saw couscous on the menu.

On the same note, a restaurant in Crossroads Arcade started out by serving “Spanish” food. A couple of weeks later, they began serving ‘diner’ food, maybe because they saw the diner a couple of doors down getting a lot of customers. And what about this coffee shop in Skyrise Building? For a short time, they started serving of all things, NACHOS. Nice combination, nachos and coffee. Wow. Obviously they were trying to steal some business from the Mexican place beside them, but come on, nachos and coffee? Gimme a break.

I mean, if you’re going to open a restaurant, do it right. If you’re going with a theme, stick to it. If you’re going with food that’s identified with one country, stick to it. Don’t freaking confuse the customer by including food from another country. If you’re going to serve a whole shitload of dishes from different countries, don’t bother labeling your restaurant as “Spanish” or “Moroccan” or “Cuban” or whatever. Like, what’s the point of calling your establishment a Japanese restaurant if you’re also going to serve pochero?