a mobster's haven in cebu

DIMLY lighted, wine bottles on the walls, soft music playing in the background, the interiors a cross between a Mediterranean villa and an Italian trattoria, this cozy restaurant located along A.S. Fortuna St. near the Adoration Convent of Divine Mercy exudes an old-world charm not found in most of the new establishments springing up in and around Cebu City. With the ambience reminiscent of a gangster’s favorite eating-place or watering hole, you’d half-expect to see Don Michael Corleone, Tony Montana and Lefty Ruggiero clinking glasses and counting the day’s take while being served by Charlie Brigante as Officer Frank Serpico glances at them furtively from another table.

Cinematic characters notwithstanding, underworld activities are not the norm at Carlito’s Way Steakhouse. Rather, the byword here is “beef.” The brainchild of Raul Baron and Leon Quimpo, two Ateneans with a taste for bovine-based meals, Carlito’s Way represents their love for the ultimate masculine fare, the steak. The duo being both self-confessed Al Pacino fans, the restaurant might very well be a tribute and a shrine to the legendary actor. Testimony to this are the various Al Pacino posters hanging on one wall of the establishment.

Diners at Carlito’s Way can choose to start their meals with Raul’s and Leon’s iteration of the traditional salpicao, a delicious plateful of tender beef cutlets sautéed in oil and served with a sprinkling of herbs. Christened “Salpacino” by the owners, this dish, usually eaten as an appetizer, can also be enjoyed as the main viand in a meal or as something to partake of with a beer or even a glass of wine.

Another wonderful complement to a bottle of beer would be their Bacon Mushrooms. Made from round bacon and mushrooms cooked in oil, it offers beer drinkers an alternative to the more commonplace pica-pica such as chicharon, sisig or pork belly.

First-time patrons should definitely try the Lengua Champignon, ox tongue and mushrooms drenched in a rich creamy sauce, topped with garlic flakes. With the ox tongue so tender it practically melts in one’s mouth, it comes as no surprise that the recipe is a well-kept secret.

Of course, steaks are king in a steakhouse, and the steaks at Carlito’s Way are definitely something to look forward to. Grilled on a rock grill using heated lava rock, the steaks come out cooked nicely, without the usual charred edges and smoky taste that come from charcoal grilling. The steaks are served with soup, buttered vegetables, a choice between rice and mashed potatoes and an excellent creamy gravy.

From their inch-thick flank steak to their rib-eye steak to their massive, 280-gram T-bone, the steaks at this restaurant not only taste really good, they also come at very affordable prices. Those who prefer chicken or fish need not despair, too, as Carlito’s Way also serves chicken and fish dishes as well as sandwiches.

With steak houses in Cebu so few and far between, Carlito’s Way comes as a welcome addition to the dining establishments found in the city. With the kind of reception they’ve received from Cebu’s hard-to-please diners, it’s quite obvious the meticulous Cebuanos have taken to steaks done Carlito’s Way.

And as Raul and Leon hope, soon Cebu will know steaks by another name.

This article was published in SunStar Cebu Lifestyle Section.