Tuesday, March 30, 2010

Heads or Tails

THINK of these two restaurants as two sides of the same coin. One is found in Cebu’s trendiest venue for dining. The other has several branches all over the city. Hukad sa Golden Cowrie and Cheaverz, both under the management of the Kokseng family, serve what Cebuanos love best: down-home cooking.

An offshoot of the much-loved Golden Cowrie restaurant along Salinas Drive, Hukad sa Golden Cowrie serves the same food as the old one, but in more up-to-date interiors.

Of course, when you’re in The Terraces, inviting interiors are a must, but more than that, the food you serve should be at par with the best.

This is what Hukad excels at. The food they serve is among the best traditional Pinoy food you’ll ever get in Cebu, and to top it off, rice is all you can eat.

Start your meal with an order of their “Baked Scallops” and you’ll see what I mean. They’re bigger than average, very fleshy, and are smothered with cheese. The cheese sets off the flavor of the scallops and leaves you wanting for more. The “Adobong Talong” should also be in your to-taste list, as it seems to be a favorite among the diners, especially among the Tagalog crowd. A visit to Golden Cowrie wouldn’t be complete without an order of their famed Crispy Pata. A deep-fried leg of pork, it is cooked until it comes out a succulent golden-brown, with the pork skin really crispy. However, the meat
underneath remains tender and juicy, each bite a luscious treat.

On the other hand, Cheaverz, popular among the take-out crowd for their barbecued pork and ngohiong, has a couple of new items on their menu. A Tagalog favorite, “Liempo,” is already available, and I bet a lot of Tagalogs will be flocking to the Cheaverz branches once word gets out. It’s a great big chunk of pork, skin and all, seasoned and slow roasted to perfection and then chopped up into bite-size pieces. It’s actually a great alternative to the usual kilo or two of lechon one takes home for dinner.

The other new item at Cheaverz is the “Lechon Manok.” Simply put, it’s a roast chicken, stuffed with leeks, onions, some cloves of garlic and seasoned with salt and pepper. Simple and satisfying, you can’t go wrong bringing home one or two of these. Of course, the Cheaverz mainstays, pork belly, ngohiong and pork barbecue have always tasted great, and I must admit, we have, more often than not, run to Cheaverz for these items whenever an impromptu party came up.

While the former can be considered classy and the latter, pang-masa, one thing remains the same with these two restaurants: they’re ever-reliable when it comes to satisfying your appetite.

With that in mind, and especially with a hungry stomach, a visit to Hukad, or Cheaverz, or both, shouldn’t be too far off in your plans.

Great Tasting Brrrr...

INVENTED by the Egyptians and Mesopotamians, beer is the third most popular drink in the world, after water and tea, according to the Wikipedia.

Beer has been mentioned in some of humanity’s earliest writings, like the Code of Hammurabi, which mentions laws regulating beer and beer parlors. The Mesopotamians even have a goddess of beer, Ninkasi, who is also known as the goddess of alcohol.

She was said to have been borne of “sparkling fresh water” and made to “satisfy the desire” and “sate the heart.” With a description like that, it’s no wonder Ninkasi is the goddess of beer and alcohol.

The Philippines has a great tradition of brewing beer, with our very own San Miguel Beer popular not only in our own country but also all over the world. While a lot of people enjoy a bottle of beer or two (or three, or four, or more), practically nobody likes drinking warm beer. Enter Beer Below Zero. Ever wished of drinking beer that’s so cold, it’s almost fozen? This is for you then.

Beer Below Zero, or “BBZ” as it is called by its fans, is not a brand of beer or beer variant. Rather, it’s a trademarked frosting process that enhances the “crispness” of a beer’s flavor. Unlike putting ice in beer (a no-no, almost a blasphemy, among true beer drinkers), which dilutes it and kills the taste, the BBZ process makes the flavors more pronounced.

To describe it simply, a beer is cooled down to just above freezing point, and served with a frost covering the bottle.

This gives beer drinkers an even more enjoyable experience drinking their favorite beverage, ice-cold but not frozen.

Be careful though. Handle the bottles roughly, clink them violently in a toast or slam them down hard on the tabletop and you’ll end up with a bottle of slushy beer, similar to the slush drinks you’ve enjoyed in your younger days.

Keeping it cold isn’t a problem, too. A beer that has undergone the process stays cold for at least 10 minutes, which is actually more time than you need to finish it.

Launched in Cebu in February of this year at four of Cebu’s most popular haunts (Formo, Moon Café, Handuraw and Yayoy’s), Beer Below Zero has generated a big following among Cebu’s beer-loving crowd. It’s even gained the attention of hotels, with the Marco Polo Plaza being the first hotel to carry it. TGI Fridays at The Terraces, part of the internationally-known restaurant chain, also carries BBZ.

BBZ has become so popular in Cebu that a lot of beer drinkers won’t hang out in an establishment that doesn’t have it.

With October right upon us, there’s going to be a lot of beer drinking going on. With Beer Below Zero available in many different outlets all over Cebu, beer drinkers won’t have any trouble getting their beers the way it should be served.

Fudging Around

WE'VE heard it all before: a new pastry shop here, another new one there; yeah, they’re practically everywhere. Step inside Fudge, though, along A.S. Fortuna St. near the intersection going to Maria Luisa, and you’ll see that it’s not just another pastry shop.

Yeah, they serve a lot of different pastries, cookies and desserts, but they also serve some pretty good versions of everyday dishes, and some, not-so-everyday. Take for example their “Tuyo Spaghetti.” Think of it as a simplified Cebuano version of spaghetti alla puttanesca (without the tomatoes) and you won’t be too far off the mark.

The dish is actually quite good, the olive oil and noodles pretty much bringing down the saltiness of the tuyo to a more tolerable level.

A more exotic dish at Fudge again uses spaghetti, but with a sauce made mostly of crab fat with some prawns thrown in for good measure. Whether people order them because they like it or just solely out of curiosity is still a mystery, but I have heard that these two dishes sell very well. Still, of the two, I’d recommend the “Tuyo Spaghetti,” hands down.

Pair these with Fudge’s version of garlic bread and you won’t go wrong. They have a different take on this favorite pasta add-on, though. It’s a small baguette, served with a garlic bulb with the top sliced off. You’re supposed to take a clove from the bulb and squeeze the insides onto the bread and spread it all over. It’s a little messy, but the experience is pretty fun.

If you go for soups, Fudge has a fantastic chunky minestrone, loaded with veggies like carrots, tomato chunks, corn, red beans and peas, with bits of bacon and bow-tie pasta (farfalle, I think they’re called). It also has shavings of Parmesan, to give it a little “bite.”

Other great options from the menu are the beef salpicao, with just the right garlicky taste, served with rice, and a very nice parmesan-crusted snapper piccata, with spaghetti pomodoro on the side.

And the desserts? You’ll go crazy at the restaurant. You should try their “Rum Balls.” I’ve tasted them once, and I got pretty much hooked. When I went back, they were sold out, which I think is the usual case, considering how delicious they are.

Aside from the rum balls, the place has one of the best sans rivals you’ll ever find in Cebu. Seriously.

I’m sure everyone has heard of chocolate chip cookies, but Fudge has quite the opposite: cookie-chipped chocolate. It’s a flat piece of chocolate with cookie chips, I kid you not.

With all these things to eat, you’ll definitely end up being thirsty. While I usually order a glass of cola with my food, I couldn’t help but give the “Fudge Iced Tea” a taste. It has an interesting flavor to it, not quite lemony, not quite orangey, not like tea at all, but a combination of all three, and very refreshing to drink. Which brings us to the restaurant’s milkshake.

It’s a real milkshake, made with real milk and ice cream, and will freeze your brains because you’d want another serving after you’ve finished a glass. Yes, it’s that good.

The place might be out of the way for some people, but for the serious foodies and sweets addicts, a trip down to Banilad shouldn’t be a chore. In which case, don’t fudge around then, so you can “fudge” around.

A Bite of Heaven

WE'VE all tried Chinese food at one time or another, and probably the most familiar Chinese food for Filipinos is the shaomai, or siomai, as called by most of us. Falling under the generic name of dim sum, which means “small bites of heaven” or “touching the heart” (according to some sources), siomai is but one of the many kinds of dim sum available at Imperial Palace Waterpark Resort and Spa’s Chinese restaurant, Cheon San, where I was invited to have lunch one day.

Prepared by chef Kenny, one of the best Chinese chefs to ever hit Cebu, the siomai at Cheon San may be some of the best you’ll ever taste without ever having to go to Hong Kong. Each bite-size piece is full of flavor and needs nary a drop of soy sauce to enhance your eating pleasure. While Chef Kenny served practically a banquet of
dim sum, several dishes stood out.

The shrimp dumplings, commonly called har gao, was a hit with me and my dining companions. Delicate looking, with a translucent wheat flour wrapper, it contained whole shrimps and was a delight to eat. Be careful while eating har gao when hot, because a little steam is trapped inside the dumpling. You wouldn’t want a scorched tongue to spoil the rest of your meal.

Another highlight of the meal was the fried tofu roll, very similar to the lumpia most of us know. However, tofu sheets are used to wrap the ingredients, instead of the more common lumpia wrapper. The tofu sheets give the spring roll a somewhat more “refined” taste, doing away with the usual smoky flavor we typically associate with lesser versions of the dish.

The best item among the dim sum dishes chef Kenny served was perhaps the prawn balls wrapped in almond chips. Surprisingly, the flavor of the prawns was not overcome by the taste of the almonds. On the contrary, the saltiness of the almonds actually served to enhance the subtle flavor of the prawns, emphasizing the richness of the meat. The outer layer of nuts also gave the dish a little “crunch,” making the experience of eating prawn balls a bit noisy.

Dishes such as taro puffs, chili-garlic shrimp, cod with mayonnaise sauce and Peking duck were also served. However, the dim sum feast we had partaken of as “appetizers” made a lasting impression on everyone, and we ended up asking for second helpings of the dim sum.

As far as Chinese restaurants go, you can bet on it that Imperial Palace’s Cheon San is one of the best in Cebu, especially with chef Kenny at the helm. And their dim sum? We can put it this way: They are definitely small bites of heaven that touch the heart.

Red Blooded Favorite

Ask any red-blooded male what his favorite beef dish is, and the answer you’d most often hear would probably be “steak”. It’s possibly the most macho of the beef dishes, and it’s one of the simplest to prepare: grab a filet, season with several dashes of salt and pepper, throw it on the grill, and voila, you got yourself a steak.

Whether you cook it on a grill or in a skillet or frying pan doesn’t matter that much; the end result usually comes out the same. One hunk of beef seared to perfection on the outside and slightly pink on the inside. Some guys prefer it cooked thoroughly, which is really a no-no, but it’s all a matter of taste. A steak is a steak is a steak. And it’s what most macho guys love to eat.

And in Cebu, where can you find a decent steak that’s easy on the budget? Black Angus Steakhouse, at the Rivergate Mall along Gen. Maxilom Ave., that’s where. The name itself evokes extreme machismo: Scottish warriors thumping their chests, raring to go into battle, their leader on the torture rack, crying “Freedom!” while staring death in the face, now if that ain’t macho, then I don’t know what is.

Step into the restaurant, however, and you won’t find any Scots in war-paint. Instead, you’d find a cozy interior, but more importantly, a menu that features steak as the main attraction. There are several different kinds, but if you gotta write about steak, then go for the good stuff: Black Angus and Wagyu. These are breeds of cattle, and they’re among the most popular. But expensive? Maybe in some places, but not in Black Angus Steakhouse. The prices are quite reasonable, and portions, macho-sized.

I zeroed in on one of my favorites: the filet mignon. It’s a slightly round piece of meat cut from the tenderest part of the cow, the tenderloin. It may have a slightly effeminate name (“mignon”), but believe me, this steak is all macho. The bacon wrapped around it adds even more manliness to the dish. What man red-blooded man doesn’t enjoy a few strips of bacon every now and then? One thing about Black Angus, even the not-so-choice cuts are already tender, so you can imagine how tender an Angus filet mignon can be. Taste-wise, it’s full of flavor. You won’t really need any gravy or Tabasco, but the restaurant still provides you with both. An order comes complete with mashed potatoes and mixed corn, carrots and stringbeans.

Black Angus also has their version of the Salisbury steak, which is actually just a fancy name for what we Pinoys know as burger steak. Except theirs is made from Wagyu beef. Now, as a rule, expensive beef like Wagyu shouldn’t be used for hamburger, because a lot of the flavors are lost during mincing. Still, the meat probably comes from the leftover meat during butchering, so instead of letting them go to waste, the butchers probably thought of using them for beef patties.

The steak comes on a sizzling plate, and the thing to do when your order arrives is to dig in right away. You wouldn’t want your burger steak to lose all its juices and go dry on you, especially if it’s Wagyu. Being Wagyu, it tastes so much better than a regular burger steak, and even if you’re an uncultured oaf, you’d still probably be able to taste the difference.

While a steak may be considered a luxury in this day and age, it wouldn’t hurt to treat yourself to one on a special occasion at Black Angus Steakhouse, especially with their very reasonable prices. And while you’re at it, grab a Wagyu burger too. I know I would.

Wednesday, August 12, 2009

Of water and Japanese cuisine

I’VE always been fond of Japanese food, and even as I consider myself a mere dabbler in the culinary arts, a dilettante if you will, I feel that Japanese cuisine is among the most fascinating in the world. So, sucker for Japanese food that I am, I accepted an invitation to dine at Mizu Restaurant, at the main level of Waterfront Cebu City Hotel and Casino.

Chef Ken Imamura prepared a special sampler menu for our party, showcasing the delicious Japanese dishes available at Mizu.

We started with a spicy tuna roll, which people might recognize as tekka maki. It’s different from the regular tekka maki though, being a bit spicier. It also tastes great: there’s no fishy smell and the nori (pressed algae sheets) has no rubbery taste. Obviously, Mizu uses the best ingredients. This particular dish would probably be a great introduction to Japanese food for people who’ve always been afraid to try it.

It was followed by cha soba juri salada, a dish made from green tea noodles topped with fresh tiger prawns and red bell pepper dressing. Don’t be surprised when you take your first mouthful: this dish is served cold, but it actually tastes great.

The strips of red bell pepper and ginger enhance the taste of the dressing. An explosion of sweet, tart and slightly spicy flavors fill the mouth with a unique taste seldom found in ordinary noodle dishes.

Nankin manju fukaheri-an was served next. The pureed pumpkin and the puffed rice coating gave contrasting textures, with the asparagus adding a bit of crunch to the dish. The scallops and shark’s fin sauce provided extra life to the already enjoyable concoction.

Three dishes came all at the same time, making it difficult to determine which was the main course. Individually though, each dish presented a different aspect of Japanese cuisine: grilled food, deep-fried dishes and soup.

The grilled ika, or squid, came wrapped in foil and was served with aromatic mushrooms. Unlike the usual grilled squid most Pinoys are used to, Mizu’s ika yaki is saucy. The squid’s flavor is retained, and overall, the dish is subtly reminiscent of adobong nokus.

Ebi tempura lovers will definitely enjoy Mizu’s ebi yuba age. Instead of being coated in batter, tiger prawns are wrapped in tofu sheets and then deep-fried. Different, but just as satisfying.

Besides being a lover of Japanese food, I also enjoy beef dishes; put the two together and you can be sure that sukiyaki is among my top ten favorite dishes.

Mizu’s sukiyaki, made from high-grade sirloin in sukiyaki sauce combined with enoki mushrooms and fresh vegetables then simmered in an iron pot, is an absolute must-try. The sirloin was very tender, the mushrooms, vegetables and noodles cooked perfectly. I almost didn’t want to stop eating.

We had tempura ice cream for dessert. The concept of fried ice cream may seem weird to some, but it’s really very simple.

The ice cream is wrapped in pastry then deep-fried for a few seconds, giving it a very crisp outer covering. Bite through the crisp crust and you’ll be rewarded with a soft and cold mouthful of bliss. Think of it as Mizu’s version of cake ala mode.

“Mizu” means “water” in Japanese. Mizu the restaurant in its own way seems to evoke the finer qualities of this particular element. The restaurant’s interiors instill a sense of calm in the diner, much like a placid pond deep in the middle of a forest.

The food at Mizu, on the other hand, can be likened to water’s many forms. The cha soba juri salada may be a thunderstorm, bursting with flavor yet ending up with a sense of serenity very few dishes can give. The grilled ika and ebi yuba age are as fantastic as the seas and oceans they came from, the tempura ice cream as refreshing as a mountain stream, and the sukiyaki, as impressive as a beautiful waterfall.

This is what makes Japanese food very fascinating, the subtleties and complexities of each dish teasing and pleasing one’s taste buds. And with Mizu’s insistence on making everything as perfect as it can be, the experience of feasting on Japanese cuisine is made even more fascinating.

The House of Chicken

EVER so often, one comes across a gem of a place that serves as a great hangout.

Iamik’s Chicken and Beer House, about 40 meters down the corner of F. Cabahug and Tres Borces Sts., is one such place. It’s an old house, converted into a dining place that serves cheap beer and mouth-watering chicken dishes. Additionally, an acoustic group plays on weekends, although on occasion, musicians do play during weekdays.

Guests can also sing with the band, so long as the band is familiar with the song, or is good enough to improvise.

Interiors are pretty simple: the décor is native inspired, and booths are found at either side, with a couple of tables and chairs down the center. The booths at Iamik’s are not what you’d find at most restaurants, though.

Guests sit on native, woven mats integrated into the floor while a low platform serves as a table. Think of it as a blend of native Filipino and the Japanese or Korean style of dining. Not surprisingly, Iamik’s is a big hit among Japanese and Korean students residing in the neighborhood.

No hard liquor is served at the restaurant, only local beer, but the prices are among the lowest you’d find in Cebu. The place also offers an all-you-can-drink promo on weekends. Of course, soft drinks and fruit juices are available for the non-drinkers.

Food is pretty great, as long as you’re fond of poultry, fowl, or chicken. Among the favorites at Iamik’s is what they call “Chicken Fight,” with three levels of spiciness. Round 1 is spicy, Round 2 is spicier, with Round 3 the spiciest, although those fond of spicy foods (like me!) might find even Chicken Fight Round 3 a bit tame for their taste.

Other dishes worth a taste are the “Chicken Boholano” (resembling the popular halang-halang), the fantastic chicken sisig, “Adidas” or chicken feet, and the breaded chicken fillet. The best seller at the resto-bar is, without a doubt, the chicken skin chicharon. It is a great complement to beer, although those who have high cholesterol levels should be careful, as chicken skin is said to be high in this.

As a specialty house, Iamik’s does pretty well, with a ton of satisfying chicken-based dishes on their menu. As a drinking place, it also does the job with inexpensive beer. As a music hall, it does okay, too, as the bands they have (while only amateurs) give a hundred percent in performing.

While Iamik’s Chicken and Beer House may not be a place to see and be seen, it’s definitely the place to go to if you want to grab a satisfying chicken meal, and at the same time knock off a few brown bottles with some good friends.

Truly Pinoy

For most people, Pinoy food isn’t really a big deal. I mean, that’s what you eat at home, right? But when it’s culinary icon Chef Gene Gonzalez (you know, the guy in the ice cream commercial) cooking the food, you just gotta stop what you’re doing and grab a bite of his food. Ongoing until the twenty-first of June, Marco Polo Plaza’s Pinoy! Pinoy! Food festival showcases several of Chef Gene’s recipes, some of which I was able to sample last Monday.

Chef Gene’s sisig terrine is his take on the favorite Capampangan dish so loved by drinkers and drunkards. In this case though, the sisig takes on the form of a terrine, which is sosyal-speak for meatloaf. It’s served cold, though, which probably won’t make it a good pulutan, but does really well as an appetizer. If you’re a sucker for manggang hilaw, then Chef Gene’s mangga sa cerveza is a must-try. The half-ripe mangoes give a sharp bite, but the beer sort of deactivates the tartness of the fruit, cooling the mouth. Think “achara” and you have the general idea of how it tastes like.

The tinolang manok, or nilat-an in Cebuano, is comforting in its simplicity. Chicken soup, native-style, is what it is, with sili leaves and the addition of bilo-bilo or flour balls, much like the flour balls you find in binignit. Chef Gene’s chicken soup seems to prove true the saying “chicken soup is good for what ails you,” as I was feeling a bit queasy that day; a few sips of the tinolang manok rejuvenated me greatly.

Cebu not being a rice-producing province, frogs’ legs are something I have not had for a long time. I was delighted to find it on the menu, and was the first to dig into the serving platter. The turmeric gives it a yellowish tint, and adds a light, spicy taste to the frogs’ legs. While my preference for frogs’ legs run to the more garlicky version, with sliced chili peppers, Chef Gene’s frogs’ legs adobo satisfied my craving for this dish otherwise unobtainable in Cebu. Those with Fear Factor tendencies should definitely have a taste.

The adobo del diablo is more or less what the Tagalogs call “adobong matanda.” It’s dry and a bit chewy, because it’s supposed to keep for at least a few weeks. During the olden times, it was stored in a clay pot and buried underground to keep cool. It’s different from the saucy adobo most of us know, but no less tasty.

Another simple yet delicious dish that day was Chef Gene’s crispy pata con bihon. Simply put, it’s rice noodles topped with deep-fried pork leg. Imagine two tasty Pinoy dishes put together and you’ve got it.

For dessert, there was a dessert plate with halo-halo, shaved ice with preserved fruits and milk, Capampangan leche flan, which is the Pinoy version of crème brulee, and my favorite, the mantecado ice cream.

While Cebu has a couple of really good Pinoy restaurants, that shouldn’t stop anyone from going up Nivel and sampling Chef Gene’s food. Once you’ve gotten a taste of Chef Gene’s cooking, you’ll never take Pinoy food for granted ever again.

Maya: A re-education

This isn’t your average Mexican restaurant. Enter Maya Taqueria and Tequila Lounge, at the Crossroads Arcade in Banilad, with an open mind, because dining at Maya becomes a re-learning of sorts. There are no Mexican dishes that we Pinoys have gotten used to. Missing are the items which some “foodies” say are the real thing, like tacos with grated cheese and ground meat of unknown origin (Is it beef or pork? Can you tell?), and enchiladas and burritos that taste the same as everyone else’s “authentic Mexican food.” You won’t even find a single sombrero in the place; Maya isn’t about ambience dictating authenticity.

Maya is about food, and the fun that goes along with discovering new flavors; when was the last time you had a guacamole that actually tasted like avocado, tinged with citrus? With little chunks you can chew? Or a refreshing salsa that’s sweet, sour and hot, filling your mouth with a coolness that slowly gives way to a zingy heat that lingers? It’s all about the flavor in Maya.

Even the tacos are different. You get a choice of roast pork that tastes like your lola’s adobo, shredded chicken with a smoky tomato-chipotle sauce, fillets of grilled fish, or Angus flank steak, with coriander and salsa in a soft corn tortilla. It doesn’t have any grated cheese, cheese does not a taco make, anyway. Don’t forget to squeeze a few drops of kalamansi on your taco, too. The taste will engulf your mouth with an explosion of flavors that will change the way you look at a taco.

You will also learn: Pinoy and Mexican cuisine are a lot alike. In fact, some dishes are identical. For one, empanadas, a stuffed pastry Pinoys love, are also a Mexican dish. Albondigas (read: meatballs) are mainstays of both Mexican and Pinoy cuisine, and yes, you can get them both at Maya.

Rice, which Pinoys love, is also a staple in Mexico, evidenced by the dishes that make use it, such as frijoles y arroz (beans and rice) and burritos. While Pinoys don’t really eat burritos often, other dishes at Maya such as the Chechac and Pescado Veracruz may convince you of the similiarity of Pinoy and Mexican food.

The Chechac is a rice dish with braised fish, coconut, bananas, tomatoes, lime and achiote, or achuete in our language. In looks, it resembles rice submerged in afritada; in taste, it will remind you of arroz a la cubana, which is very familiar to the Pinoy palate. Similarly, the Pescado Veracruz, a fish dish, undergoes a very Pinoy way of cooking, wrapped in banana leaves. It’s the same way most Pinoys would cook a fish on the beach. And what about the very Pinoy leche flan for dessert?

More importantly, prices are Maya are very reasonable. You can dine there without having to tighten your belt till the next payday. Factor in the quality of the food, the beautiful interiors, and the excellent service and you’ll find that you’re getting mucho bang for your peso.

As far as authenticity goes, everyone has their ideas about authentic Mexican food. In my opinion, Maya sets the benchmark for Mexican food in Cebu, and probably even in Manila. As for the ninety or so kinds of tequila available at Maya, well, that’s best saved for another article.

Fuzhou feast

Once upon a time, a scholar was traveling, with his food contained in a clay jar used for storing wine. One day, he warmed his food beside a monastery with high walls. A monk living in the monastery smelled the food warming and jumped over the wall to look for the source of the smell. It was originally called “A Buddhist monk jumps over the wall” but over the years came to be known as “Buddha jumps over the wall”.

Cebuanos don’t need to jump over the wall to have a taste of this soup; all they have to do is head over to Tea of Spring at Shangri-La’s Mactan Resort and Spa and feast on the dishes specially prepared by Chefs Tacky Zheng and Yang Jianxi, who flew over from Fujian province in China to share their culinary prowess with us, in Tea of Spring’s Fuzhou Food Festival, ongoing from August 8 to 16.

With ingredients such as quail’s eggs, noodles, abalone, scallops, shark’s fin and sea cucumber, one would expect the taste of “Buddha jumps over the wall” to be quite exotic. Not so, as the flavor of the soup is actually quite subtle. It’s neither sour, nor spicy, nor sweet, but a combination of flavors and textures that there is only one way to describe it: very delicious.

Aside from “Buddha jumps over the wall”, some recognizable Chinese dishes are also available, but with special touches from Chef Tacky and Chef Yang. The double-boiled minced meat dumpling and fishball soup might be mistaken in looks for the common pancit molo, but that’s where the similarity ends. The soup has pork dumplings as well as fishballs, but the fishball is bigger than a golf ball, and when you bite or cut into it, you’ll discover that it’s stuffed with minced pork.

The wok-fried egg noodles looks like, yes, pancit, but again, the two Fujian chefs make this somewhat common dish taste heavenly. Dessert can be pretty surprising, as most Pinoys usually have birds’ nest soup before the meal. In this case, the birds’ nest soup was served as a dessert, and warm at that. The most surprising thing is that this particular kind of birds’ nest soup had grated, toasted coconut, making it taste like binignit!

Most of us have pretty much taken Chinese food for granted, but for those seeking new horizons in dining, a visit to Tea of Spring this coming week should be in order. James Hilton, in his book “Lost Horizon” described Shangri-La as mystical yet harmonious. With the dishes at Tea of Spring, the author’s vision of paradise on earth is reflected, and like the inhabitants of the mythical Shangri-La, diners at Tea of Spring may want to stay for good.

Eating well

Some people eat to live. Others live to eat. For me, it’s a no-brainer. Eating is, without a doubt, one of life’s true joys. It doesn’t really matter where I’m eating: at home, at a fancy restaurant, or a hole-in-the-wall. There are no ifs, ands or buts about it: I enjoy eating a stick of local tempura the same way I enjoy a serving of Japanese tempura at any of the city’s better Japanese restaurants. Which is to say, with much gusto. If the food is good, then I will enjoy it. Period.

We should also never confuse the phrase “eating well” with “eating expensive food” because these are two entirely different things. You can eat expensive food, but this doesn’t necessarily mean that you’ll actually enjoy it. Expensive food isn’t always delicious, mind you. It’s all relative: a gourmet will definitely appreciate the subtle nuances of foie gras, but a construction worker may not find it to his liking. To him, it may taste too fatty, too lardy or just plain weird.

Then there’s this myth that hotels and expensive restaurants always serve excellent food. In my opinion, that’s all it is: a myth. I’ve been to some expensive hotels and restaurants where the food won’t pass muster, simple dishes like afritadang manok, tinolang manok, calderetang kambing and pancit lomi, dishes that have been perfected by the cooks at lowly carinderias all over the country. On the other hand, there are those hotels and restaurants that offer fantastic versions of simple dishes like barbecued pork (Shangri-La’s Tides restaurant), lamb chops (Waterfront’s La Gondola) and cheeseburgers (Marriott’s Garden Café).

Of course, you don’t need a lot of money to enjoy eating. There are always the less expensive but equally noteworthy food outlets. For Chinese food, I’d go for Ding Qua Qua with their reasonably-priced buffet. The tapsilog at Pandora’s Box deserves special mention, as well as Fidel’s fried chicken.

Never let anyone tell you that enjoying food comes with a price. Simply put, eating well is all about enjoying a meal to the fullest, whatever it is. And if you spend peanuts on a meal that’s fit for a king, then good for you, and don’t forget to tell me where the restaurant is.

Thursday, March 12, 2009

Noodle-icious

WHETHER they’re long, white noodles with rich meat sauce or short, orange noodles with slices of hotdogs the size of 25-centavo coins, most people consider spaghetti as comfort food. With the opening of The Old Spaghetti House, spaghetti lovers can discover the many different variations of this all-time favorite.

Located at the upper ground level of SM Cebu, in between a popular bakeshop and a chicken restaurant, The Old Spaghetti House, or Tosh for short, offers a wide selection of spaghetti-based dishes. While they do serve other kinds of pasta, rice dishes (like the delicious salpicao with garlic rice), kiddie meals, combo meals and desserts (like their mud pie and colossal chocolate chip cookie a la mode), it’s the spaghetti that will make you come back for more.

The classic spaghetti Bolognese at Tosh should please most spaghetti lovers, with its flavorful meat sauce seasoned with herbs and spices, while the restaurant’s kiddie spaghetti is the way a lot of kids (and even adults!) like it: slightly sweet and distinctively Pinoy-style. And it’s not all red-sauced spaghetti that’s available at Tosh.

The restaurant’s chicken and mushroom spaghetti is a good introduction to the more sophisticated versions of the dish. The basic sauce is creamy and garlicky at the same time, and its flavor is complemented by the slivers of chicken and mushroom that make up the body of the sauce.

Those who are looking for more than just spaghetti should definitely try the pepper-crusted fish with spaghettini. The white dory fillets are covered with a light, peppery crust and are a delight to eat. The spaghettini, which are slightly smaller than the regular spaghetti noodles, are tossed with a tasty, garlicky basil, tomato and oil-based sauce. Customers won’t go wrong in ordering this particular dish.

Another pasta and chicken dish that’s worthy of mention is the golden-crusted chicken crepe served with angel hair pasta. The chicken crepe greatly resembles a chicken cordon bleu, although instead of just breading, the chicken, ham and cheese are wrapped in a crepe then deep-fried. The angel hair pasta, looking much like sotanghon noodles except they’re a bit bigger in diameter, is slathered with a pretty good pomodoro sauce. Made from tomatoes, olive oil and basil, the pasta pomodoro is a good choice for the health-conscious.

The present economic crisis notwithstanding, most of us still would want to eat out, whether it’s to celebrate a special occasion or just to cheer ourselves up with some comfort food. Still, most of us would want to eat at a place where we can get a lot of bang for our buck. This is the norm at The Old Spaghetti House: good food at reasonable prices.

What a comfort!

Christmas, Cooking and Crispy Pata

“CHRISTMAS in Poland is not much different from Christmas in the Philippines,” explains Cebu City Marriott Hotel’s executive chef Witold Sczcechura, or Witek (pronounced “Vitek”) for short. He adds, “It is also full of family gatherings.”

That said, food and family became a perfect combination for chef Witek. When he was 12, he helped run his family’s restaurant in his native country of Poland. While he acquired most of his basic cooking skills working for his mother, he still attended culinary college in Poland and interned in Switzerland.

His professional culinary duties have led him to spend the last 10 years in Asia, the last two here in Cebu. Ever the culinaryexplorer, he confesses to a liking for crispy pata, which he says reminds him of roasted pork knuckles, a traditional Polish dish. Besides this, he also likes bulalo and is intent on getting a taste of dugo-dugo and chicharong bulaklak.

“The best way to discover the local taste is to try the street food,” chef Witek says. And according to him, “Working in the kitchen gives a person opportunities to learn more about other cultures.” Expressing a love for the culinary arts, he advises aspiring chefs to “love what you do, otherwise you won’t be successful in this profession.”

Discotheque

THE word conjures up images of the 70s when the discotheque, or disco for short, became popular. Roughly meaning “disc library,” the discotheque boasted a wide collection of vinyl records, or discs, hence the name. As technology gave rise to CDs and digital audio files, DJs turned their backs on vinyl, preferring to use the more compact forms of recorded audio.
Still, some like it old school. One new establishment that prefers to do it the old way is AK&7, at The Gallery along Juan Luna Ave. While they do have the standard professional DJ-type CD players, they also maintain a pair of disco-duty turntables, lorded over by a couple of DJs who’ve done their share of spinning both vinyl and digital audio. According to Joshua, Ak&7’s marketing guy, the establishment hopes to be known as one of the places in the city to cater to the house music crowd, referring to the emerging “club” scene in Cebu.

And it’s pretty obvious they’re serious about giving club kids a nice place to hang out in. Interiors are well thought-out: an evidently well-stocked bar greets you as you enter, while plush, comfortable stools and booths beckon you to take a seat.

Big shots need not be concerned too, as AK&7 does have VIP accommodations at the second level. If stuffy, smoke-filled bars and clubs aren’t exactly your style, you don’t have to miss out on the AK&7 experience as they have an al fresco area right out front.

The place serves a wide variety of drinks, from mocktails to margaritas to Moet & Chandon. Bar chow isn’t an issue as well; the menu lists such items as mini-pizzas, gambas, grilled squid and fish nuggets.

People have been saying that the nightlife in Cebu is becoming more and more mature; AK&7’s entry into the scene provesthat yes, Cebuanos do take their partying seriously. While AK&7 has yet to prove that it can party with the best of them, one thing is certain enough: AK&7 is definitely a welcome addition to Cebu’s nightlife.

+++Last time I heard, this establishment was being sold...Does anyone know if this is true?

Asian Coffee Break

SWOOSH, the server raises the shiny metal pot and a stream of boiling hot coffee gushes out and falls into another container. Swish, the server pours the coffee back into the metal pot; he repeats this process several times until the coffee is mixed exactly as he wants it. He then serves, mixed with sugar and milk, to the customer. No, you’re not in the hawker center along Amoy Street in Singapore.

You can see this at Kopitiam Korner, at Paseo’s Phase 2 down in Panagdait, Mabolo. Owner Raul Baron thought of bringing this traditional Asian coffee drink to the Philippines, after seeing this common sight in the streets of our Asian neighbor.

If you’re tired of the noisy Seattle-style coffee shops with the servers shouting out names of the customers, then Kopitiam Korner might be a good choice for you. “I wanted a more “Asian” version of the coffee shop. The stalls that serve traditional pulled coffee in Singapore seemed the best bet.” He explains, “It’s still coffee, but with a distinct Asian feel to it. And besides, Filipinos are more fond of sweetened coffee.”

Besides pulled coffee, Kopitiam Korner also serves the traditional pulled tea found in both Malaysia and Singapore, called tea tahrik or teh tarik. A variety of Singapore-style snacks are also served like kaya toast and soft-boiled eggs. No expensive deli-style sandwiches here, just simple fare for simple people.

Kaya toast is simply a sandwich spread with a Malay-style coconut jam made from coconut milk, eggs and sugar, which is spread on one piece of bread, with butter on the other piece. The taste is very similar to the Filipino coco jam, but the eggs and butter definitely add a lot more flavor to the spread, coming out with an interesting, somewhat creamy taste. The soft-boiled eggs, on the other hand, is served very differently from the way we’re used to. Where most people just break open the egg, sprinkle it with some salt and eat it straight from the shell, Raul suggests opening the egg, dumping the contents into a bowl, then giving it a dash of soy sauce along with some salt and pepper. Using a fork, mash the egg, stir it a few times to mix all the ingredients, and scoop the mixture onto a slice of French toast. Voila! Egg-sandwich, Singapore-style.

French toast is also available with a lot of different spreads to choose from. Filipinos being a snack-eating people, the food is a welcome addition to one’s afternoon coffee break.
While an afternoon at Kopitiam Korner is not a substitute for a visit to Singapore, it is a welcome change from the usual coffee shop: no noisy servers, more food choices and more importantly, a place where you can actually enjoy your coffee.

Out of Africa

IMAGINE it a safari, but instead of the spectacle of wild animals, it’s the culinary essences of South Africa you savor.

At the invitation of the Ambassador of South Africa Pieter Vermeulen and his wife Chrisma, with the cooperation of TheCebu Chamber of Commerce and Industry, Marco Polo Plaza Cebu and Darras + Bowler, members of society, industry and media were treated to a fine South African meal. It is something most of us have not had the opportunity to experience before.

It’s not roots and grubs and exotic ingredients; rather, the meal we had was as gourmet as can be, with the ingredients imported from South Africa. The extraordinary dishes were prepared by chef Beate and chef Susina, also flown in especially for the occasion.

A cream-based soup started the meal, and it signaled the beginning of our foray into the cuisine of South Africa. The creamy soup base was poured over pieces of blue cheese and air-dried beef jerky known as biltong. I’d read about this a long time ago, being mentioned in Wilbur Smith novels, and I’d always wanted to taste it. I would have to say that my expectations were surpassed; it was better than I ever expected it to be. The soup course was followed by braised snoek, which is a kind of elongated fish found in the Atlantic Ocean.

The carpaccio that night was made from an antelope called a kudu, and it had sort of the same texture as deer meat.It was as tasty as any carpaccio made from beef that I’ve ever eaten. The bobotie was also pretty interesting, made from minced meat and had a very faint citrus taste.
Overall, it tastes like a top-of-the-line sisig, something Pinoy beer drinkers would definitely enjoy. Barbecued lamb was served with the bobotie, and was excellent as well, although my favorite that night would have to be the sausage South Africans call boerewors, probably derived from boer or farmer, and wurst for sausage. Sidings were couscous, pickled mangoes and chackalaka, similar to the local atchara.

South Africa has always conjured up images of adventure, exploration and discovery, and it was indeed a night of adventure, and discovery that night at the South African food and wine festival at the Marco Polo.

Maria Clara Cafe

COFFEE shops are places where you can hang out, ergo, it’s not unusual to find people who stay in coffee shops for hours at a time. Of course, man does not live on coffee alone, so occasionally, the need to partake of a good sandwich comes along.

At Maria Clara Café, along Minoza St. in Talamban, just across the corner from the sports complex, coffee and sandwiches mix, and they mix particularly well. Maria Clara Café has brewed coffee, cappuccino, frappucino, and what they call “choco loco” which is coffee with whipped cream and chocolate syrup. Besides the coffees, they also offer sikwate, or native hot chocolate. They actually played around with the sikwate, and they have four different kinds. It may sound pretty bizarre, but the sikwate with mango syrup and the sikwate with siling espada taste good. Different, but good.

A visit to the café is not going be complete if you don’t have at least one of their sandwiches. They have a nice variety of sandwiches, served with different kinds of bread. Bagel lovers should try out the pastrami and cream cheese bagel, a favorite among foreigners, while those looking for a more Filipino taste should give the humba pan de sal a taste. Meat eaters have two great-tasting items to choose from, the panini corned beef and roast beef on rye. The café’s salami submarine sandwich is also a great choice, and big enough to share with someone.

Aside from the coffees, native hot chocolate and sandwiches, they also have milkshakes, wines and imported beers like Tsingtao, Oettinger and Guinness Stout. Incidentally, the place also offers different kinds of breads, bagels, donuts and cakes, and an all-day breakfast.

With all the goodies they offer, from the beverages, to the sandwiches and pastries, the café isn’t just another coffee shop. It’s a nice blend of coffee shop, snack bar, diner and watering hole, but without the loud noises and other distractions commonly found in other establishments. There’s also a nice blend of sophistication and quaint, down-home goodness found in the cafe. As cafés go, Maria Clara Café seems to have everything in place, and most importantly, there’s that welcoming quality that you sense the moment you enter the premises.

+++I'm not sure if the original branch is still open, but I think there's a branch in front of USC in Talamban

Cantina in Cebu

When I was in highschool, My friends and I used to hang out in a popular Mexican restaurant in Makati. We hung out there not to eat, but to meet girls and have more than a few drinks, or have a few drinks then meet girls. I'm much older now, but Mexican restaurants still hold that attraction for me, if only to reminisce about my high school days. Which is why I was more than happy to write about Jose Maria's Bistro, at The Gallery along Juan Luna Avenue.

Not only does it serve almost the same kind of food, it even has a name very similar to my old high school haunt. And whenever my old school chums get together, we usually end up hanging out at Jose Maria's. Maybe it's the food, maybe it's the booze, maybe it's the memories, maybe it's all three that bring us there.

Foodies and business partners Jomai Azanza and Rachel Israel have put together a pretty good cantina, serving good food and drinks at perfectly reasonable prices. The place has two levels, with the second floor able to hold around 40 people at a time. Several tables can be found right in front of the restaurant, perfect for the smoking customers. The friendly staff is always alert, so whether you're on the second floor, outside, or in the cozy first level, ordering is not a problem.

Diners will be very pleased to see that Jose Maria's menu is not composed of purely Mexican dishes. Of course, there are the usual tacos, quesadillas and fajitas, but mixed in are items such as baby back ribs, pizza and herbed pork chops. Diners should definitely try the Chili Relleno. Green chilies stuffed with ground beef, it's a great complement to a bottle of cerveza. Be careful though as the spiciness kind of creeps up on you; the first taste is okay, but then you feel the heat building up then suddenly kicks in. And then you order another bottle of beer. It's pretty addictive, but then so is Jose Maria's fish fillet topped with mango salsa. The fish is very tender, and its subtle flavor is enhanced by the mango bits. Among the items in the menu, I'd say these two are the highlights.

Truth be told, Jose Maria's isn't really for the party nor the chill-out crowd. It's actually more suited to groups who just want to have a nice time hanging out with each other. Trendiness isn't even a requisite trait at this restaurant; call me old, but all you need to hang out at Jose Maria's is an appreciation of satisfying food, cold refreshing beer, and good company.

Tuesday, June 3, 2008

Buko...

Filipinos call it the “Tree of Life”, and while the coconut tree and the coconut have a lot of non-culinary uses, its basic property is as a food item. People have been eating coconuts for hundreds, maybe even thousands of years, and that said, it has been discovered that the coconut can be prepared and eaten in as many different ways.

Chop off one end of a fresh green coconut and drink the coconut water inside. It should be slightly sweet; the water of an older yellow coconut is somewhat bitter. Be careful though, as coconut water can have a laxative effect.

Break open the coconut and you will discover that it contains a white, fleshy substance. This coconut meat can be eaten as is, or grated finely, then used as a topping for any of the various native delicacies like puto and kutsinta. The grated coconut meat, when mixed with warm water, gives you coconut milk, which is used a lot in Asian cuisine. Dishes like the Malaysian rendang, and the Pinoy version of chicken curry make use of coconut milk to give the dishes an exotic taste. Palm wine, toddy or arrack, commonly called tuba or lambanog in the Philippines, are made from the sap of the coconut palm. When the coconut sap is fermented for a long time, coconut vinegar is produced.

The buds of adult coconut plants are also very edible, and are very popular not only in the Philippines but all over the world. The lumpiang ubod, or native spring roll, makes use of this particular ingredient. The bud, usually called “heart-of-palm”, are also used in salads. One major drawback, however, is that harvesting the bud usually kills the plant.

The meat of the coconut is also made into macapuno, composed of strips of coconut meat in sweet syrup. There are also other sweets made from coconut, among them the nata de coco, a sweet, jelly-like concoction, and bucayo, made from sweetend coconut meat. Macaroons, a popular snack in the Philippines, is also made from shredded coconut meat. Another popular FIlipino snack, the maja blanca, is made from coconut cream. The Chinese and Thais also have the coconut pudding, which is very similar to the maja blanca.

According to food enthusiast Myra Magsaysay-Sun, Filipinos in olden times used not only coconut meat in cooking chicken binakol, they also used the coconut shell itself as a container in which to cook the ingredients. Some enterprising individuals and establishments serve coconut water in the shell itself, while others use the shell to serve ice cream as well as cocktails such as the famous pina colada, made using rum, coconut cream and pineapple juice.

Filipinos, for the most part, probably take the coconut tree form granted. Some people, though, consider the coconut an exotic treat, giving them a taste of the tropics. As for the coconut itself, whether the tree or the fruit, it stands out as one of the most useful things that God has put on this earth.

Hectic Schedule, Hard Times

I'm now editing Sun.Star Weekend, Sun.Star Cebu's weekly supplement, and while it's not exactly a grueling job, it does take up a lot of my time. I haven't updated anything for several months, but it doesn't mean I've stopped eating.

Everything's becoming more expensive nowadays, rice included. Even with rice prices going up day by day, I don't think Pinoys are ready to give up this all-important part of the meal. Still, it's a sorry sight seeing puso getting smaller and smaller.