Tuesday, March 30, 2010

Heads or Tails

THINK of these two restaurants as two sides of the same coin. One is found in Cebu’s trendiest venue for dining. The other has several branches all over the city. Hukad sa Golden Cowrie and Cheaverz, both under the management of the Kokseng family, serve what Cebuanos love best: down-home cooking.

An offshoot of the much-loved Golden Cowrie restaurant along Salinas Drive, Hukad sa Golden Cowrie serves the same food as the old one, but in more up-to-date interiors.

Of course, when you’re in The Terraces, inviting interiors are a must, but more than that, the food you serve should be at par with the best.

This is what Hukad excels at. The food they serve is among the best traditional Pinoy food you’ll ever get in Cebu, and to top it off, rice is all you can eat.

Start your meal with an order of their “Baked Scallops” and you’ll see what I mean. They’re bigger than average, very fleshy, and are smothered with cheese. The cheese sets off the flavor of the scallops and leaves you wanting for more. The “Adobong Talong” should also be in your to-taste list, as it seems to be a favorite among the diners, especially among the Tagalog crowd. A visit to Golden Cowrie wouldn’t be complete without an order of their famed Crispy Pata. A deep-fried leg of pork, it is cooked until it comes out a succulent golden-brown, with the pork skin really crispy. However, the meat
underneath remains tender and juicy, each bite a luscious treat.

On the other hand, Cheaverz, popular among the take-out crowd for their barbecued pork and ngohiong, has a couple of new items on their menu. A Tagalog favorite, “Liempo,” is already available, and I bet a lot of Tagalogs will be flocking to the Cheaverz branches once word gets out. It’s a great big chunk of pork, skin and all, seasoned and slow roasted to perfection and then chopped up into bite-size pieces. It’s actually a great alternative to the usual kilo or two of lechon one takes home for dinner.

The other new item at Cheaverz is the “Lechon Manok.” Simply put, it’s a roast chicken, stuffed with leeks, onions, some cloves of garlic and seasoned with salt and pepper. Simple and satisfying, you can’t go wrong bringing home one or two of these. Of course, the Cheaverz mainstays, pork belly, ngohiong and pork barbecue have always tasted great, and I must admit, we have, more often than not, run to Cheaverz for these items whenever an impromptu party came up.

While the former can be considered classy and the latter, pang-masa, one thing remains the same with these two restaurants: they’re ever-reliable when it comes to satisfying your appetite.

With that in mind, and especially with a hungry stomach, a visit to Hukad, or Cheaverz, or both, shouldn’t be too far off in your plans.

Great Tasting Brrrr...

INVENTED by the Egyptians and Mesopotamians, beer is the third most popular drink in the world, after water and tea, according to the Wikipedia.

Beer has been mentioned in some of humanity’s earliest writings, like the Code of Hammurabi, which mentions laws regulating beer and beer parlors. The Mesopotamians even have a goddess of beer, Ninkasi, who is also known as the goddess of alcohol.

She was said to have been borne of “sparkling fresh water” and made to “satisfy the desire” and “sate the heart.” With a description like that, it’s no wonder Ninkasi is the goddess of beer and alcohol.

The Philippines has a great tradition of brewing beer, with our very own San Miguel Beer popular not only in our own country but also all over the world. While a lot of people enjoy a bottle of beer or two (or three, or four, or more), practically nobody likes drinking warm beer. Enter Beer Below Zero. Ever wished of drinking beer that’s so cold, it’s almost fozen? This is for you then.

Beer Below Zero, or “BBZ” as it is called by its fans, is not a brand of beer or beer variant. Rather, it’s a trademarked frosting process that enhances the “crispness” of a beer’s flavor. Unlike putting ice in beer (a no-no, almost a blasphemy, among true beer drinkers), which dilutes it and kills the taste, the BBZ process makes the flavors more pronounced.

To describe it simply, a beer is cooled down to just above freezing point, and served with a frost covering the bottle.

This gives beer drinkers an even more enjoyable experience drinking their favorite beverage, ice-cold but not frozen.

Be careful though. Handle the bottles roughly, clink them violently in a toast or slam them down hard on the tabletop and you’ll end up with a bottle of slushy beer, similar to the slush drinks you’ve enjoyed in your younger days.

Keeping it cold isn’t a problem, too. A beer that has undergone the process stays cold for at least 10 minutes, which is actually more time than you need to finish it.

Launched in Cebu in February of this year at four of Cebu’s most popular haunts (Formo, Moon Café, Handuraw and Yayoy’s), Beer Below Zero has generated a big following among Cebu’s beer-loving crowd. It’s even gained the attention of hotels, with the Marco Polo Plaza being the first hotel to carry it. TGI Fridays at The Terraces, part of the internationally-known restaurant chain, also carries BBZ.

BBZ has become so popular in Cebu that a lot of beer drinkers won’t hang out in an establishment that doesn’t have it.

With October right upon us, there’s going to be a lot of beer drinking going on. With Beer Below Zero available in many different outlets all over Cebu, beer drinkers won’t have any trouble getting their beers the way it should be served.

Fudging Around

WE'VE heard it all before: a new pastry shop here, another new one there; yeah, they’re practically everywhere. Step inside Fudge, though, along A.S. Fortuna St. near the intersection going to Maria Luisa, and you’ll see that it’s not just another pastry shop.

Yeah, they serve a lot of different pastries, cookies and desserts, but they also serve some pretty good versions of everyday dishes, and some, not-so-everyday. Take for example their “Tuyo Spaghetti.” Think of it as a simplified Cebuano version of spaghetti alla puttanesca (without the tomatoes) and you won’t be too far off the mark.

The dish is actually quite good, the olive oil and noodles pretty much bringing down the saltiness of the tuyo to a more tolerable level.

A more exotic dish at Fudge again uses spaghetti, but with a sauce made mostly of crab fat with some prawns thrown in for good measure. Whether people order them because they like it or just solely out of curiosity is still a mystery, but I have heard that these two dishes sell very well. Still, of the two, I’d recommend the “Tuyo Spaghetti,” hands down.

Pair these with Fudge’s version of garlic bread and you won’t go wrong. They have a different take on this favorite pasta add-on, though. It’s a small baguette, served with a garlic bulb with the top sliced off. You’re supposed to take a clove from the bulb and squeeze the insides onto the bread and spread it all over. It’s a little messy, but the experience is pretty fun.

If you go for soups, Fudge has a fantastic chunky minestrone, loaded with veggies like carrots, tomato chunks, corn, red beans and peas, with bits of bacon and bow-tie pasta (farfalle, I think they’re called). It also has shavings of Parmesan, to give it a little “bite.”

Other great options from the menu are the beef salpicao, with just the right garlicky taste, served with rice, and a very nice parmesan-crusted snapper piccata, with spaghetti pomodoro on the side.

And the desserts? You’ll go crazy at the restaurant. You should try their “Rum Balls.” I’ve tasted them once, and I got pretty much hooked. When I went back, they were sold out, which I think is the usual case, considering how delicious they are.

Aside from the rum balls, the place has one of the best sans rivals you’ll ever find in Cebu. Seriously.

I’m sure everyone has heard of chocolate chip cookies, but Fudge has quite the opposite: cookie-chipped chocolate. It’s a flat piece of chocolate with cookie chips, I kid you not.

With all these things to eat, you’ll definitely end up being thirsty. While I usually order a glass of cola with my food, I couldn’t help but give the “Fudge Iced Tea” a taste. It has an interesting flavor to it, not quite lemony, not quite orangey, not like tea at all, but a combination of all three, and very refreshing to drink. Which brings us to the restaurant’s milkshake.

It’s a real milkshake, made with real milk and ice cream, and will freeze your brains because you’d want another serving after you’ve finished a glass. Yes, it’s that good.

The place might be out of the way for some people, but for the serious foodies and sweets addicts, a trip down to Banilad shouldn’t be a chore. In which case, don’t fudge around then, so you can “fudge” around.

A Bite of Heaven

WE'VE all tried Chinese food at one time or another, and probably the most familiar Chinese food for Filipinos is the shaomai, or siomai, as called by most of us. Falling under the generic name of dim sum, which means “small bites of heaven” or “touching the heart” (according to some sources), siomai is but one of the many kinds of dim sum available at Imperial Palace Waterpark Resort and Spa’s Chinese restaurant, Cheon San, where I was invited to have lunch one day.

Prepared by chef Kenny, one of the best Chinese chefs to ever hit Cebu, the siomai at Cheon San may be some of the best you’ll ever taste without ever having to go to Hong Kong. Each bite-size piece is full of flavor and needs nary a drop of soy sauce to enhance your eating pleasure. While Chef Kenny served practically a banquet of
dim sum, several dishes stood out.

The shrimp dumplings, commonly called har gao, was a hit with me and my dining companions. Delicate looking, with a translucent wheat flour wrapper, it contained whole shrimps and was a delight to eat. Be careful while eating har gao when hot, because a little steam is trapped inside the dumpling. You wouldn’t want a scorched tongue to spoil the rest of your meal.

Another highlight of the meal was the fried tofu roll, very similar to the lumpia most of us know. However, tofu sheets are used to wrap the ingredients, instead of the more common lumpia wrapper. The tofu sheets give the spring roll a somewhat more “refined” taste, doing away with the usual smoky flavor we typically associate with lesser versions of the dish.

The best item among the dim sum dishes chef Kenny served was perhaps the prawn balls wrapped in almond chips. Surprisingly, the flavor of the prawns was not overcome by the taste of the almonds. On the contrary, the saltiness of the almonds actually served to enhance the subtle flavor of the prawns, emphasizing the richness of the meat. The outer layer of nuts also gave the dish a little “crunch,” making the experience of eating prawn balls a bit noisy.

Dishes such as taro puffs, chili-garlic shrimp, cod with mayonnaise sauce and Peking duck were also served. However, the dim sum feast we had partaken of as “appetizers” made a lasting impression on everyone, and we ended up asking for second helpings of the dim sum.

As far as Chinese restaurants go, you can bet on it that Imperial Palace’s Cheon San is one of the best in Cebu, especially with chef Kenny at the helm. And their dim sum? We can put it this way: They are definitely small bites of heaven that touch the heart.

Red Blooded Favorite

Ask any red-blooded male what his favorite beef dish is, and the answer you’d most often hear would probably be “steak”. It’s possibly the most macho of the beef dishes, and it’s one of the simplest to prepare: grab a filet, season with several dashes of salt and pepper, throw it on the grill, and voila, you got yourself a steak.

Whether you cook it on a grill or in a skillet or frying pan doesn’t matter that much; the end result usually comes out the same. One hunk of beef seared to perfection on the outside and slightly pink on the inside. Some guys prefer it cooked thoroughly, which is really a no-no, but it’s all a matter of taste. A steak is a steak is a steak. And it’s what most macho guys love to eat.

And in Cebu, where can you find a decent steak that’s easy on the budget? Black Angus Steakhouse, at the Rivergate Mall along Gen. Maxilom Ave., that’s where. The name itself evokes extreme machismo: Scottish warriors thumping their chests, raring to go into battle, their leader on the torture rack, crying “Freedom!” while staring death in the face, now if that ain’t macho, then I don’t know what is.

Step into the restaurant, however, and you won’t find any Scots in war-paint. Instead, you’d find a cozy interior, but more importantly, a menu that features steak as the main attraction. There are several different kinds, but if you gotta write about steak, then go for the good stuff: Black Angus and Wagyu. These are breeds of cattle, and they’re among the most popular. But expensive? Maybe in some places, but not in Black Angus Steakhouse. The prices are quite reasonable, and portions, macho-sized.

I zeroed in on one of my favorites: the filet mignon. It’s a slightly round piece of meat cut from the tenderest part of the cow, the tenderloin. It may have a slightly effeminate name (“mignon”), but believe me, this steak is all macho. The bacon wrapped around it adds even more manliness to the dish. What man red-blooded man doesn’t enjoy a few strips of bacon every now and then? One thing about Black Angus, even the not-so-choice cuts are already tender, so you can imagine how tender an Angus filet mignon can be. Taste-wise, it’s full of flavor. You won’t really need any gravy or Tabasco, but the restaurant still provides you with both. An order comes complete with mashed potatoes and mixed corn, carrots and stringbeans.

Black Angus also has their version of the Salisbury steak, which is actually just a fancy name for what we Pinoys know as burger steak. Except theirs is made from Wagyu beef. Now, as a rule, expensive beef like Wagyu shouldn’t be used for hamburger, because a lot of the flavors are lost during mincing. Still, the meat probably comes from the leftover meat during butchering, so instead of letting them go to waste, the butchers probably thought of using them for beef patties.

The steak comes on a sizzling plate, and the thing to do when your order arrives is to dig in right away. You wouldn’t want your burger steak to lose all its juices and go dry on you, especially if it’s Wagyu. Being Wagyu, it tastes so much better than a regular burger steak, and even if you’re an uncultured oaf, you’d still probably be able to taste the difference.

While a steak may be considered a luxury in this day and age, it wouldn’t hurt to treat yourself to one on a special occasion at Black Angus Steakhouse, especially with their very reasonable prices. And while you’re at it, grab a Wagyu burger too. I know I would.

Wednesday, August 12, 2009

Of water and Japanese cuisine

I’VE always been fond of Japanese food, and even as I consider myself a mere dabbler in the culinary arts, a dilettante if you will, I feel that Japanese cuisine is among the most fascinating in the world. So, sucker for Japanese food that I am, I accepted an invitation to dine at Mizu Restaurant, at the main level of Waterfront Cebu City Hotel and Casino.

Chef Ken Imamura prepared a special sampler menu for our party, showcasing the delicious Japanese dishes available at Mizu.

We started with a spicy tuna roll, which people might recognize as tekka maki. It’s different from the regular tekka maki though, being a bit spicier. It also tastes great: there’s no fishy smell and the nori (pressed algae sheets) has no rubbery taste. Obviously, Mizu uses the best ingredients. This particular dish would probably be a great introduction to Japanese food for people who’ve always been afraid to try it.

It was followed by cha soba juri salada, a dish made from green tea noodles topped with fresh tiger prawns and red bell pepper dressing. Don’t be surprised when you take your first mouthful: this dish is served cold, but it actually tastes great.

The strips of red bell pepper and ginger enhance the taste of the dressing. An explosion of sweet, tart and slightly spicy flavors fill the mouth with a unique taste seldom found in ordinary noodle dishes.

Nankin manju fukaheri-an was served next. The pureed pumpkin and the puffed rice coating gave contrasting textures, with the asparagus adding a bit of crunch to the dish. The scallops and shark’s fin sauce provided extra life to the already enjoyable concoction.

Three dishes came all at the same time, making it difficult to determine which was the main course. Individually though, each dish presented a different aspect of Japanese cuisine: grilled food, deep-fried dishes and soup.

The grilled ika, or squid, came wrapped in foil and was served with aromatic mushrooms. Unlike the usual grilled squid most Pinoys are used to, Mizu’s ika yaki is saucy. The squid’s flavor is retained, and overall, the dish is subtly reminiscent of adobong nokus.

Ebi tempura lovers will definitely enjoy Mizu’s ebi yuba age. Instead of being coated in batter, tiger prawns are wrapped in tofu sheets and then deep-fried. Different, but just as satisfying.

Besides being a lover of Japanese food, I also enjoy beef dishes; put the two together and you can be sure that sukiyaki is among my top ten favorite dishes.

Mizu’s sukiyaki, made from high-grade sirloin in sukiyaki sauce combined with enoki mushrooms and fresh vegetables then simmered in an iron pot, is an absolute must-try. The sirloin was very tender, the mushrooms, vegetables and noodles cooked perfectly. I almost didn’t want to stop eating.

We had tempura ice cream for dessert. The concept of fried ice cream may seem weird to some, but it’s really very simple.

The ice cream is wrapped in pastry then deep-fried for a few seconds, giving it a very crisp outer covering. Bite through the crisp crust and you’ll be rewarded with a soft and cold mouthful of bliss. Think of it as Mizu’s version of cake ala mode.

“Mizu” means “water” in Japanese. Mizu the restaurant in its own way seems to evoke the finer qualities of this particular element. The restaurant’s interiors instill a sense of calm in the diner, much like a placid pond deep in the middle of a forest.

The food at Mizu, on the other hand, can be likened to water’s many forms. The cha soba juri salada may be a thunderstorm, bursting with flavor yet ending up with a sense of serenity very few dishes can give. The grilled ika and ebi yuba age are as fantastic as the seas and oceans they came from, the tempura ice cream as refreshing as a mountain stream, and the sukiyaki, as impressive as a beautiful waterfall.

This is what makes Japanese food very fascinating, the subtleties and complexities of each dish teasing and pleasing one’s taste buds. And with Mizu’s insistence on making everything as perfect as it can be, the experience of feasting on Japanese cuisine is made even more fascinating.

The House of Chicken

EVER so often, one comes across a gem of a place that serves as a great hangout.

Iamik’s Chicken and Beer House, about 40 meters down the corner of F. Cabahug and Tres Borces Sts., is one such place. It’s an old house, converted into a dining place that serves cheap beer and mouth-watering chicken dishes. Additionally, an acoustic group plays on weekends, although on occasion, musicians do play during weekdays.

Guests can also sing with the band, so long as the band is familiar with the song, or is good enough to improvise.

Interiors are pretty simple: the décor is native inspired, and booths are found at either side, with a couple of tables and chairs down the center. The booths at Iamik’s are not what you’d find at most restaurants, though.

Guests sit on native, woven mats integrated into the floor while a low platform serves as a table. Think of it as a blend of native Filipino and the Japanese or Korean style of dining. Not surprisingly, Iamik’s is a big hit among Japanese and Korean students residing in the neighborhood.

No hard liquor is served at the restaurant, only local beer, but the prices are among the lowest you’d find in Cebu. The place also offers an all-you-can-drink promo on weekends. Of course, soft drinks and fruit juices are available for the non-drinkers.

Food is pretty great, as long as you’re fond of poultry, fowl, or chicken. Among the favorites at Iamik’s is what they call “Chicken Fight,” with three levels of spiciness. Round 1 is spicy, Round 2 is spicier, with Round 3 the spiciest, although those fond of spicy foods (like me!) might find even Chicken Fight Round 3 a bit tame for their taste.

Other dishes worth a taste are the “Chicken Boholano” (resembling the popular halang-halang), the fantastic chicken sisig, “Adidas” or chicken feet, and the breaded chicken fillet. The best seller at the resto-bar is, without a doubt, the chicken skin chicharon. It is a great complement to beer, although those who have high cholesterol levels should be careful, as chicken skin is said to be high in this.

As a specialty house, Iamik’s does pretty well, with a ton of satisfying chicken-based dishes on their menu. As a drinking place, it also does the job with inexpensive beer. As a music hall, it does okay, too, as the bands they have (while only amateurs) give a hundred percent in performing.

While Iamik’s Chicken and Beer House may not be a place to see and be seen, it’s definitely the place to go to if you want to grab a satisfying chicken meal, and at the same time knock off a few brown bottles with some good friends.