Bountiful Repast

It’s that time of year when the weather gets colder, the mood gets festive, and parties come one after the other. The Christmas season has always been a joyful occasion, and Christmas Day, probably the most important day in Christendom. Food has always been an essential part of Christmas celebrations, and it has been the tradition of Filipino families to celebrate the eve of Christmas with a meal called the noche buena, a Spanish phrase roughly meaning “bountiful night”.

The Christmas Eve get-together acts as a prelude to the Christmas Day festivities. Families usually gather at the ancestral home, bringing special dishes to share with their loved ones. As much as possible, the more affluent families try to prepare a lechon, or roast piglet seasoned with salt and several kinds of herbs, since in the Philippines, a feast is not considered complete without one. Crisp golden brown skin on the outside, with tender juicy pork on the inside, many consider the lechon as the highlight of the noche buena meal.

The humble Lechon manok, a chicken seasoned with salt, pepper and herbs, has also found its way to the Christmas table. For the less prosperous, it acts as a substitute for the lechon itself, while for others, the lechon manok is a complement to the roast piglet. Other families, especially those with more Western tastes, serve turkey on Christmas Eve. Usually stuffed with wild red rice, onions, potatoes, carrots and herbs, baked for several hours and served with gravy, cranberry sauce or applesauce, the Christmas turkey provides an American touch to the otherwise traditional Filipino noche buena.

The Philippines’ strong Chinese influences also play a major part in the selection of food for the Christmas Eve meal. Lumpia, a spring roll containing vegetables, heart of palm, or ground pork, is often served, either fresh or deep-fried. Sometimes, both kinds are served during noche buena. Pancit, usually served during birthdays to signify long life, are also a popular choice for most people. Whether it’s Canton, bihon, palabok, Malabon or any one of its many versions, you can more often than not find it on many a Christmas Eve table. Spaghetti, which some say is the Italian version of pancit, is also another popular dish served during this meal.

The noche buena, a Filipino tradition, might be considered as being actually international cuisine. Aside from Filipino, American, Chinese and Italian dishes, some of the food served during noche buena can trace their roots to other countries. The ever-present queso de bola, while having a Spanish-sounding name, is basically Dutch Edam cheese. The different kinds of Christmas hams, though most of them are produced locally, are more or less European in origin. Apples and chestnuts, also very popular during the Christmas season, are obviously brought in from somewhere else, with the bulk of the imports probably coming from China. There is really no hard-and-fast rule in what foods to serve during noche buena though; any kind of food can be served. What’s important is those who will partake will enjoy whatever is on the table.

But probably even more important than the food is the spirit of Christmas itself. Christmas has always been the season for giving, and what could be more in keeping with the Christmas spirit than sharing our blessings with others? Think of those who won’t have as much, or none at all, on their tables this Christmas Eve, and spend a little less this time around. Buy a smaller lechon, or just buy three instead of four lechon manoks, or buy lechon manok instead of turkey. A smaller ham would probably do just as well as a big one, or a smaller bilao of pancit Malabon in place of the large one that’s not going to be eaten completely anyway.

Use the extra money to prepare several gift packages. A couple of packs of noodles, a few kilos of rice, a can or two of sardines (or corned beef if you’re really feeling generous), some sugar, salt, milk, coffee or juice, a few sweets (such as candies or cupcakes) for the kids in each package. Share them with the less privileged, the less fortunate this Christmas, and let the good feelings season and flavor the Christmas Eve banquet you’re planning to have. Believe me, your noche buena will taste much, much better.

Seafood to Savor

Anybody who’s ever seen “Ratatouille” will definitely do a double take when they see Maribago Bluewater’s new executive chef. Portly, with a knack for coming up with fantastic tasting dishes, Chef Jose Miguel Lontoc is a dead ringer for the movie’s fictional yet celebrated Chef Gusteau. Exuding a charm and grace typical of an old-world gentleman, Chef JoeMike exhibits a culinary skill the cartoon chef and his creators can only dream of.

Chef JoeMike moved to Cebu from Manila about half a year ago, to take charge of culinary as well as administrative duties in Maribago Bluewater. Educated in Australia and having done consultancy work for several hotels both abroad and in the Philippines, the move to Maribago was a perfect one, both professionally and on a personal aspect. He says the laid-back lifestyle in Cebu is a welcome change from the hectic pace and pressure he was accustomed to.

The Cove is a seafood restaurant, and Chef JoeMike’s rule of thumb when it comes to seafood: fresh is always best. At the Cove, the seafood isn’t just fresh, it’s live! Crabs, prawns, lobsters, fish and mollusks are kept in aquariums, taken out only when they are ready to be prepared and cooked.

Dinner at The Cove was a multiple celebration: my wife Chacha’s 33rd birthday, my third year of writing for Sun.Star, and a reunion between Chef JoeMike and me. We had been classmates in grade school in LSGH and it’s been 23 years since we last saw each other. Incidentally, it’s also Sun.Star Cebu’s 25th Anniversary on November 25, so please allow me this opportunity to greet the Sun.Star family a very happy Silver Anniversary.

So back to the food: my wife and I started out with a simple clam chowder. Unlike most cream-based soups that tend to be heavy on the stomach, The Cove’s clam chowder was very light, yet still creamy. With diced potatoes, small pieces of clam as well as a whole white clam in the center, for both aesthetic and gastronomic purposes, it was a great way to begin a meal.

Raw oysters came next, with three different kinds of toppings. Sushi lovers will like the oysters with uni and tobiko roe, with the orange fish eggs and a sweet and sour taste. Those with more European tastes might prefer the horseradish and caviar topping, with the horseradish giving the bite and the black caviar a bit of a crunch. The topping I found most to my liking was the cocktail sauce. Most Cebuanos would find the taste very familiar, spicy and vinegary, perfectly complementing the taste of the oyster.

Abalone with jellyfish followed, tasting somewhat like mushrooms in oyster sauce, with a light undertone of pepper. It’s a great-tasting dish that’s not really part of the menu, although I’m sure Chef JoeMike will gladly prepare it for you as long as you ask nicely.

Diners will probably find the gambas al ajillo at The Cove a bit different from what they’re used to, although they’ll definitely be satisfied with what arrives at the table. Using huge prawns instead of the usual small shrimps, prawn lovers will be able to savor the flavor of the prawn meat itself, not just the sauce. When ordering, be sure to specify whether you like it mild or spicy, and Chef JoeMike will adjust the taste accordingly.

Another round of oysters was served, this time baked, with different toppings: creamed arugula and cheese, blue cheese and garlic, and lemon-butter sauce. The creamed arugula with cheese was interesting: while cheese is usually a mainstay when baking oysters and mussels, the cream and arugula provided a counterpoint to the saltiness of the cheese, not to mention a dash of color. The blue cheese and garlic topping was also different, yet comforting: images of grilled tahong with cheddar cheese and garlic at our back yard came to mind. Of course, you can never go wrong with a good lemon-butter sauce on seafood, and Chef JoeMike proves this with his own version of the ever-popular sauce.

The main courses were lobster cooked two different ways, and an incredible steamed lapu-lapu. The Chinese-style lapu-lapu, which practically melts in your mouth, has actually been part of the menu at Maribago Bluewater even before Chef JoeMike arrived. According to him, it’s the only item whose recipe he didn’t touch, save for making a few adjustments for consistency. He explains, “I don’t fix things when they aren’t broken, so there was no reason for me to alter the recipe of the lapu-lapu.”

Both the Lobster Thermidor and the Asian-style Lobster were delicious, giving my wife and me a chance to compare which way of cooking suited lobster better, European or Asian. The cheese perfectly accented the flavor of the meat in the Thermidor, and the lobster being fresh, it was no surprise that the meat was tender as can be. Traditionalists will definitely enjoy the lobster cooked this way, while those with more adventurous palates should try the Asian-style lobster. Cooked with coconut milk, lemongrass and chili, it gives diners a whole new perspective when they look at lobster. The lobster meat still tender and succulent, the coconut milk and chili gave a Southeast Asian twist to the already delectable lobster. If made to choose between the two though, I would pick the lobster, Asian-style.

The Cove sets a pretty good table, with Chef JoeMike, Food and Beverage Manager Douglas Berido, Daisy, Bert, Christian and the very efficient staff, cooks and all, working together to give guests a great culinary experience. As a matter of fact, a lot of people, me included, can honestly say that the food at The Cove Seafood Restaurant rank among the best in Cebu.

Food writers really have a tough job, weeding out the good from the bad, the bland from the flavorful, and writing about it. Chef JoeMike and his staff has made my job in this instance very easy, serving me and my wife a fantastic meal, and making our visit to The Cove a memorable one. I may not be an Anton Ego, the critic in “Ratatouille”, but I find myself paraphrasing him: “I will be returning to The Cove soon, hungry for more!”

Pinoy Pleasers

Walk into a restaurant that offers Filipino food and more often than not, you’ll find crispy pata on their menu. Having that, there’s also a big possibility that the crispy pata’s younger brother, the lechon kawali, will also be included in the menu.

The crispy pata has long been a popular food in the country. Simply put, it’s just the pata, or thigh, of a young pig, seasoned with salt, pepper and marinated in vinegar, or is it the other way around? It’s then dumped in a pot of boiling oil and deep-fried for as long as it takes to cook. The lechon kawali is practically the same thing: a portion of pork belly prepared the same way, and cooked the same way.

But just what is it about these two dishes that they always have to be served in a place that offer Filipino dishes? Perhaps it’s the contrasting textures one gets when biting into a slice: the crispy pork skin, the tender meat, and the fatty region in between. Or maybe it’s the taste of the tender meat and skin dipped in a mixture of vinegar, soy sauce, Philippine lemon, red peppers, garlic cloves and onion bits: meaty, yet sour, sweet and spicy all at the same time. Or is it because these two dishes are typical of the way Pinoys love food, simple yet satisfying? Or maybe, just maybe, it’s all of the above.

SerJos, at the ground floor of Mango Park Hotel along Mango Avenue, is not exactly a purely Filipino restaurant. As a matter of fact, about half of their menu feature international dishes, but among the Filipino dishes they do serve, the crispy pata and lechon kawali certainly stand out.

SerJos’ crispy pata is definitely a no-brainer for lovers of Pinoy food. Unlike the oily and not-so-crispy examples found at other establishments, the crispy pata at this restaurant is cooked and served the way it should be. It’s dry on the outside, with almost no trace of oil, and very juicy on the inside. The skin is crispy, yet not cooked too long that it becomes as crunchy and tough as chicharon. The meat itself has a slight crust from being deep-fried, but it serves to keep the juices in. Expect the same thing when you order the lechon kawali. Crisp, yet tender and juicy when you bite through the thin crust that is the result of deep-frying. On their own, these dishes already taste good, but a drop or two of the vinegar-soy sauce mixture can make things more interesting, especially when you throw in a lot of red chili peppers into the mix. As viands, both the crispy pata and lechon kawali are perfect with rice for a great meal. As bar food, however, these two can serve as fantastic pulutan for beer or hard liquor.

While these two dishes are definite palate-pleasers, the other items on the menu are also worth a taste. Baked mussels, grilled stuffed squid and other well-liked international dishes such as ebi tempura and steak are offered as well. Still, for most Pinoy food lovers, a wide variety of international dishes wouldn’t really matter at all, if there’s something as wonderfully satisfying as crispy pata and lechon kawali on the table. And at SerJos, you absolutely won’t go wrong ordering these two.

Magnifico!

“Ask a thousand Italians to cook lasagna and you’ll end up with a thousand different versions,” says Rico Matta, a transplanted Italian and proprietor of Rico’s la Trattoria, an Italian restaurant located in the Century Plaza complex along Juana Osmena St. He goes on to clarify that though Italian food has its basic recipes, most Italians have their own ideas of how each dish or sauce should taste like. That being so, there is actually no right or wrong recipe when it comes to authentic Italian cooking.

Like most Italian men, he puts his mother on a pedestal; he relates that he learned a lot about cooking from his mother, and most of the food he serves at the trattoria are versions of the dishes his mother used to cook. And like most Italians, he prefers to make his own pizza dough and pasta. Of course, his sauces are also made from scratch; homemade is the key word in Rico’s kitchen.

Pizza is essentially a choose-your-own-topping affair: starting with a basic cheese pizza with real mozzarella cheese, customers can choose from different toppings like pepperoni, ham, bacon, mushrooms, onions and peppers, among others. Diners can also specify if they want their pizza crispy or not.

Homemade pasta is the norm at Rico’s, by way of a pasta machine, and is always cooked al dente. Raviolotti, a slightly larger version of ravioli, is also available at Rico’s. Stuffed with spinach and ground beef, and swimming in a rich meat sauce, this dish would be a great introduction to Italian food for people whose experience with pasta is limited only to spaghetti Bolognese and the occasional fettucini ala carbonara.

The pesto and Bolognese at this restaurant are both, to quote an old popular TV commercial, “magnifico!” The pesto is made fresh, from basil, olive oil and pine nuts. It tastes the way it should: just the right blend of sweet and salty, just a little nutty, and definitely not so oily as to be uneatable, even though pesto sauce is composed mostly of olive oil. The Bolognese is made from tomato paste, not tomato sauce, and given the nationality of the cook, the code of Omerta automatically kicks in. Rico’s secret way of cooking the sauce remains exactly that: a secret. Nevertheless, the richness of the tomatoes and the flavor of the meat blend together perfectly, and give diners an idea of how la dolce vita is supposed to taste like.

Rico’s marinated pork in brown sauce is a sure winner for diners looking for meat dishes, while the gnocchi in cream sauce is also worth a taste. Aside from the food, the restaurant also offers live music on most nights, and has an outdoor dining area for those who prefer it al fresco. Given the Cebuanos’ propensity for good food and leisure activities, Rico’s la Trattoria is undeniably a welcome addition to the city’s dining and entertainment scene.

Foodies

Was it Mrs. Gump, or was it Forrest, who said, “Life is like a box of chocolates”? In my case, it’s not a box of chocolates but an endless series of restaurants, cafés, bars, hangouts, food tastings and anything and everything that has to do with food.

As one of the feature writers of Sun.Star Cebu, the leading community newspaper in the Philippines, I’ve gone to a lot of restaurants here in Cebu, both in the city and its outskirts. I’ve tasted a lot of food, from cheap street cuisine to the more expensive items you would only find at specialty restaurants.

Before writing for Sun.Star’s lifestyle section, Live!, I had already been exposed to good food and fine dining by my grandfather and namesake, Dr. Lino Arquiza, Sr. When he was alive, it was very often for me, breakfast at the Manila Mandarin in Makati, lunch at Manila Midtown Ramada along Herran, and dinner at the Century Park Sheraton on Vito Cruz. Living in Malate, we were in close proximity to the best hotels and restaurants in the city. Lolo was sort of a gourmand, fond of good food, so we were always eating out. If we weren’t eating at hotels, we would be at Kimpura or Miyako for Japanese food, Gloria Maris for Chinese, and Josephine’s for Filipino dishes.

My Dad Vicmar is also a bit of a foodie. A steak lover, he would often take me to SGS Steakhouse in Greenhills after picking me up from class at La Salle Greenhills. He was responsible for getting me addicted to rare, bloody steaks, although he prefers his on the medium-well side. If not steak, then Dad and I, together with my Ninong Jose, would be chowing down on chicken mami and siopao at Ling Nam Noodle House, still in Greenhills, or camaron rebosado, lomi and fried rice at Luyong Restaurant in Pasig. Midnights at home would be spent eating all kinds of sandwiches, omelets, noodles, chips and whatnot, and drinking lots and lots of Coca-Cola while watching TV.

My Mom Glenda, on the other hand, would initiate wiener roasts at night in the front yard, with marshmallows to match. A great cook, her special adobo and tapa is always a sure winner at family gatherings, while her pasta with pesto would sometimes be ignored by our guests, though I’m sure she only cooks it because her children like it.

My Lola Ising cooks great bistik and pommes frites.. What’s so great about her French fries is that they’re actually more like shoestring potatoes, cut so finely that they end up being really crispy. There’s also her pan de sal slathered with Star margarine, sprinkled with a little sugar then heated on her frying pan. I don’t know what to call it, fried bread maybe, but heck, it tastes good!

Lola Bebe, Dad’s mother, was also a bit of a cook, always whipping something up in the kitchen. Her sukiyaki would definitely give any Japanese restaurant a run for the money, while her banana cake would have given any commercial baker stiff competition.

I’m very fond of eating, and my wife, Chacha, fortunately, shares the same passion. She insists that I cook better than she does, but I beg to differ. Her sinigang is definitely out of this world, and her spaghetti with meat sauce and nilagang baboy can rival anybody’s best. Chacha also has this knack of putting together leftovers and coming up with something wonderful to eat.

As for myself, I can do a mean pasta with grilled chicken and white sauce, somewhat resembling pasta Alfredo, except with grilled chicken, seafood pasta, which has whatever seafood’s on hand, lasagna, deli sandwiches, and a bunch of different things like steak, chicken fried steak, stuffed chicken, salpicao, veal chops, home fries, baked potato wedges and popcorn.

I realize that these things don’t make me an expert on food, but hey, This ain’t rocket science, people. Who the heck needs a degree, or a membership in a gastronomic society for that matter, to appreciate good food?

New Brew

As their marketing slogan goes, “Something’s brewing up north”. Good news then for coffee lovers in Mandaue and all points north looking for a place to hang out in.

Café Volere, at the ground floor of the North Road Plaza along the National Highway, offers customers not just the regular cup of java everyone’s used to, but a whole lot of other brews. Besides being just another coffee shop, Café Volere also caters to both food and dessert lovers. Kingsley Ko, the proprietor, explains, “My family is also into the baking and pastry business, so we thought it would be a practical move to combine it with a coffee shop. At Café Volere, we have pastries, cakes, and of course, coffee.”

Following the trend in most popular coffee shops, Café Volere serves a selection of hot coffees like ordinary brewed coffee, cappuccino and moccacino; however, they also have iced coffees for those who prefer their caffeine fix cold, although this is where the similarity ends. Café Volere’s iced mocha, while very flavorful, stops short of being too chocolaty that it becomes too much like a chocolate drink. On the other hand, their iced hazelnut coffee refrains from being too subtle that the drinker feels shortchanged, not being able to taste anything. Instead, it just bursts with the flavor of hazelnut, giving the customer exactly what he or she wants in a cold cup of flavored coffee. Those not into a caffeine buzz won’t feel left out, as blended drinks such as Café Volere’s strawberry or cookies and cream smoothies are available. For those who love to eat, pizza, lasagna and baked macaroni are available, as well as a variety of desserts like triamisu and chocolate mousse.

Unlike most popular coffee shops though, Café Volere isn’t a place to see and be seen in. It’s actually a little off the beaten path, away from the malls and commercial centers, but that is where it’s main attraction lies. Its calm and tranquil atmosphere is perfect for coffee lovers who just want to enjoy their coffee without any distractions. It’s also a great place for dessert lovers to just hang out in and pig out on a slice of choco-strawberry cake or two. Intellectuals may find the place conducive to a quiet discussion of art and music, sports, politics or the latest movies. For lovebirds, the place can be an ideal rendezvous for a few moments together.

So whether you’re a coffee lover, a certified foodie, an intellectual, a lovebird, or whatever, take a short trip up north, and find out what’s brewing.

Bulalo, and a cow's unmentionables...

People usually think “Cebu City” when talking about restaurants. While it’s true that most of the better restaurants are found in the city, Cebu does not have a monopoly on great eating-places, especially those offering great value for money, and fresh country air to boot.

Those heading north may want to drop by for a bite to eat at Orosia Food Park. Located along the National Highway, Orosia Food Park in Consolacion is a popular venue for those who want to partake of traditional Filipino and Cebuano food. According to proprietor Elton Tio, the restaurant is also in much demand as a setting for wedding receptions, debuts and the like. Boasting of two levels, with each floor capable of seating around a hundred people, it’s not hard to understand why people hold their parties at Orosia. Not only that, the restaurant also has a substantial garden area that can also be used for festive celebrations. Those bringing kids will also appreciate the playground to the side of the main structure. Parking is definitely not a problem as the front can accommodate a very large number of vehicles.

Food at Orosia is basic Pinoy and Cebuano fare: grilled, cooked as the soup known as tinowa, or kilawin or kinilaw, made from raw ingredients such as fish soaked in vinegar and mixed with onions, garlic and other native flavorings and spices. Aside from the usual grilled food such as pork belly and barbecue, grilled tuna panga and boneless bangus are also available, with the bangus very well-flavored, not even needing to be dipped in soy sauce or vinegar, unlike the typical bland items found in other eating places. Orosia’s kangkong and grilled eggplant are also worth a try, and paired with the salted fish fried rice. For the more adventurous, lansiao, a stew made from a cow’s unmentionables, is available. Of course, one shouldn’t leave Orosia Food Park without tasting their pochero, or beef shank soup. Cholesterol overload aside, if there’s one dish Orosia is famous for, this is it.

Aside from the food, Orosia Food Park offers as an added attraction Elton’s pets. Though the animals are not actually on display, customers can request the staff to give them a look at Elton’s menagerie; the more daring can even handle them.

Though its location may seem a deterrent to those living in Cebu City, the good food, the fresh country air and the proprietor’s pets should be reason enough for those tired of the city’s dining scene. For the ones living up north, Orosia is a welcome treat for them, as it allows them to avail of good food without having to go all the way to Cebu City. All in all, whether you’re from the big city or from the towns and cities up north, Orosia Food Park is a win-win proposition.